One of the sufferings of summer—how to drink wine on the go outdoors—may have just been solved. It’s nigh on impossible to go tubing with a bottle and a glass in hand, while on a picnic someone is always going to forget the corkscrew. Underwood’s solution: put the wine in a can.
Underwood (produced by Union Wine in Tualatin, OR) already produces down-to-earth wines at good prices and their canned wine is a further development of their campaign to make wine drinking less stuffy and more accessible (an admirably enough aim, though their ‘Pinkiesdown’ concept is either overly defensive or annoyingly gimmicky). Most existing wine in a can is sugary, fizzy crap, suitable for teenagers that want to get loaded without having to deal with the taste of alcohol, so it’s good to see that Underwood’s offering, available in standard 12oz sizes, uses wine that is the same as the bottled stuff, either white (Pinot Gris) or red (Pinot Noir).
Underwood’s wines are young, fruit forward and easy to drink and seems to taste the same whether poured from bottle or can, though when drunk straight from the can (which is surely the point of having the thing) there is a slight tinny feel that you’d also get from a canned coke or beer. To begin with, wine from a can feels oddly transgressive—a prejudice Underwood are presumably keen to combat—or perhaps it’s the association with It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia. Either way, the more you drink, the less it matters. Just remember that each can is half a bottle, so it’s probably best not to chug ‘em like PBR. Underwood Pinot in a can, $24 for a four pack, available here, and for $6 each from select New Seasons, Whole Foods and Food Front