Fade to Light’s not the biggest fashion show in Portland, but it may be the most consistent. If we count its earliest incarnations as a rock-themed show, it’s one of the longest-running, and the only one to have proven it can sustain two seasons.

Wednesday’s winter edition saw an overall uptick in interesting design work and a welcome proliferation of live musical accompaniment, though the introductory films seemed to take more of a backseat than usual. It was a long show, with two intermissions, and the usual cast of loyal participants mixed with a few newer names.

Among the best was Veil & Valor, a collaboration (formerly known as Primal Haunt) between textile designer Kate Troyer and apparel designer Shelby Morgan. Always attuned to offbeat takes on the natural world, Troyer came up with a fantastic snake motif that blazed across a demure dinner jacket, cutting the biker vibe it nodded to. A folksy, oversized flower print, frog-printed co’ords (the collection was called “The Toad Frog”), and braided edges on many of the garments helped seal the deal on a project that took Frida Kahlo as its muse.

Bryce Black also stepped up his game considerably, melding his signature high drama with a stronger than usual concession to wearability, including a unique, feather-festooned anorak, an awesome fringed black pantsuit, and an overall lean into more structured garments. Not to say things were quiet—there was plenty of oversized fake fur being thrown around, including a bright yellow and black wink at the humble bumblebee.

This was the first apparel debut for the Altar (née Mag-Big) Houseline, which prove to be a lovely wash of easily layered sheer prints in simple tunic and caftan shapes as well as more ambitious pant looks, establishing themselves as a go-to for embellishing pieces as well as staples, and at one of the more accessible price points on the Portland circuit.

As always, WWJJD and Michelle Lesniak stretched the imagination. WWJJD’s sleep-inspired collection combined pajama-esque wide pants, dropped crotches, sheer tunics and leggings with an acid-dream combo of orange and blue in floral pants and patchwork shirts.

Lesniak, meanwhile, concentrated on swimwear with hot air balloon prints and roped ruching, gradually transitioning to cool windbreakers and dresses and skirts with amazing drape in unexpected color combinations and micro-pleated embellishments—a fittingly high note to end it all until Fade to Light returns for summer.

See below for more of my picks for the best looks of the evening.

Studio SKB:

Adelheid Bergin:

Stefanie Says:

Portland Sewing's Fashion Forward students:

Garnish:

Rogue:Minx: