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Aaron Lee

CALL IT THE PORTLAND DILEMMA: Do I go with the sweet or the savory brunch choice?

If I go with the Dutch baby, there's a good chance I'll be feeling a bit prediabetic before noon. Go with the salty hash, and I'm going to crave a nip of sugar by meal's end. Note: I am aware there are many worse "problems" to have.

HunnyMilk, a guilelessly charming brunch pop-up at Hogan's Goat Pizza, has the remedy. The menu is simple: $20 gets you a drink, a savory dish, and a sweet dish—the best of both worlds on a single silver platter.

Chef/owner Brandon Weeks says that he came up with the idea for HunnyMilk during a picnic at Laurelhurst Park with his girlfriend, Alexandra Franzen. Since November, Franzen has served as HunnyMilk's front of house, while Weeks has conjured up dishes like red velvet waffles dipped in honey butter with cream cheese mousse and chocolate shavings, and a super-fluffy quiche spiked with miso with a side salad of apples and candied hazelnuts.

So far, the crowds have been light enough that we could grab a table without a wait—but the inventive food and price point mean that's liable to change. You start with one of the three beverage options: a mimosa with a float of triple sec and ice cream, a hypersweet caramel hot chocolate with toasted milk marshmallows, or the bottomless Caffe Umbria coffee, which can be doctored with cream, almond milk, housemade white chocolate crumbles, and turbinado sugar.

HunnyMilk has adorable little touches for a restaurant that has to tear down after every service: The first Saturday of every month, they hand out a bundle of writing materials and decorations (with stamps!) to write snail mail while you wait. Other mornings, a cup of crayons rests atop hand-drawn and photocopied coloring sheets—winners of the contest get gift certificates for more brunch. It's the kind of thing that would normally gag me with a coffee spoon, but the unpretentious presentation of absolutely everything makes this twee feel just right.

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