The Hawaiian plate lunch masters at Ate-Oh-Ate have decided to pu-pu wing week—literally. They’re making an island appetizer that’s big in size and flavor. These wings are fried up super crispy and then get a sweet-salty treatment of soy, garlic, sugar, and chili flakes. Thanks to the east-west pairing of rice and wheat flours, the breading is both substantial AND light, like some sort of magical bird beast that can both fly and produce enough wing meat to satisfy the heartiest of carnivore. These wings aren’t too messy, and they still pack a wallop of flavor since they’re rested in the sauce after frying, then drained and served. You’re going to need an umbrella drink for this one. ANDREA DAMEWOOD