Jan 13, 2011 at 4:00 am

The Password Is: Don't Be an Asshole.

Comments

1
The place is hilariously pretentious. When this sort of gentrification rot grows somewhere downtown, you just want to throttle someone and remind them that Portland is still kind of a grubby, poor man's town (thank god). We aren't California... yet.

But the cocktails were great, I'll grant that. I didn't order anything to eat because I'm veggie and, anyhow, just wanted to leave asap after a drink. I got the screaming Meemies the second I saw the black curtain. You're absolutely right that one has to hop the fence on the culture war to enjoy this place -- if you aren't milking a trust fund, you may be a tad uncomfortable here. You might want to go next door to Valentines and sooth your class angst with a beer.
2
The guy ahead of me beat me too it. I would like to try the cocktails however. "Beautiful young people in vintage clothes and thick glasses"? Oh you mean pretentious 4 eyed dorks? Nice Do they have wispy beards too? Sweet!That's ok, I love french food (if indeed it is) and will give it a try. The black curtain does'nt bother me in the least. And passive aggressive self entitled nerds don't make me uncomfortable in the least, generally I make them nervous. it's fun too!
3
idiots
4
@Ovidius What about it did you think was pretentious? I'll admit, that's what I suspected to find, but actually the staff was really friendly and excited to talk about their food/drink each time I went. And as I mentioned, the crowd was pretty diverse (at least in terms of age and style). Was your experience different? Or what, in your mind, defines pretension?

Also, gentrification? The space used to be a moderately-expensive hair salon (I went to a party there once and everyone was doing blow). It's between Valentine's and an oyster bar. I'd say it's at least a lateral move.

@Showstopper There's no good reason for purposefully making people feel nervous or uncomfortable--whether it's to feel culturally superior or 'cause you find it "fun." It just means you're a dick.
5
Tony, actually I agree about the staff. Except for the guy at the door that gave me and the girl I was with a once over, as if doing a spot assessment on our social stock. Other than him, they were very warm and friendly. Service was glacial, but I'm not the type that really cares about the speed of service.

Regarding the gentrification thing, it's more about the clientele. I was there on a busy weekend night, and everyone there was in a far higher tax bracket than myself. I wouldn't call it diverse by any measure. As for it being pretentious, it's the gimmick the place is operating on -- the exclusive, supper club atmosphere, the black curtain, the faux-shabby chic (didn't this die out in the 90s?), and that gross "Bohemian" slumming-it vibe that seems to accompany young wealthy people.

But, hey, I already admitted I have class anxiety. I'm a socially conscious person, and a lot of things rankle with me that I'm sure others would be fine with. For cocktail craft, I could see them pulling up in rank up alongside the Clyde, Teardrop, and Beaker & Flask in the future. I was with some people who tried the crepes, and all of them said the food was excellent. I get the feeling that this place would be a lot better if they'd just can the hokey speakeasy gimmick.
6
I got banned from this place after apologizing to a waitress for my rude friend.
7
Finally learning how to make crepes that aren’t crispy doesn’t really warrant the prices at Central. They are only accompanied by a small drop of greens lightly dressed. They were already a bit over priced before for the cart setting. Now the prices are a little silly. As for the speakeasy, I don’t think it was meant to be elitist. I think the owner was just trying a potentially fun concept but if they are really looking people up and down at the door, as one of the earlier commentors writes, that’s going in the wrong direction with it.
8
Calling it a "speakeasy" is a little silly, but I think this place is pretty great. Great drinks with unique ingredients, delicious crepes, and a really cool, stylish atmosphere, something I personally love when I'm going out to dinner, otherwise I'd rather just cook at home. It's one of the few new places that have opened up recently that I would and have gone back to.

If that's too pretentious for you, then I'm sure there's another food cart pod opening up in your neighborhood.
9
A speakeasy is an illegal drinking establishment. Central is pretty far from an illegal drinking establishment.
10
Stop worrying so much about what everyone else is thinking and JUST BE. Jesus this town is self obsessed. Central is a nice place. Relax! enjoy it.
11
@ Tony-that only happens if I get the pretentious, " we are better/wealthier/more socially elite" stare down or vibe. Even at that i generally just go about my life, but there are exceptions. For example, a few years ago at a somewhat similar establishment, I was having lunch with my now ex fiancee. As a college professor (phd biochemist) and outdoors enthusiast she wore a lot of Columbia, LL bean etc and certainly did'nt go to Bishops. While we are attempting to enjoy lunch, there was a table of Jackass hipster (here for the "scene") table (2 couples) making remarks about her wardrobe, bag, shoes, hair etc(she is an attractive women but was largely unconcerned about being trendy). She became uncomfortable and embarrassed and wanted to leave. You know I could have just been a bitch and scurried out of there, but no. As you point out I am a dick. So I went over and asked politely if they would cease and desist and please apologize. Naturally i got the typical " nerd humor and hipster "we talk shit and never back it up attitude". I then informed the two males that i would be in the area for several hours and was free of social engagements, at which point the humor appeared to have ceased.. I also made several remarks about the appearance of their female companions (fair is fair). I am not suggesting this is what Portland in general is about, but that type of behavior is disgusting. @Ovidius -Class anxiety? I don't care what is in their wallet, do these people seriously think they are better than someone else? Ghassan clearly does. What a surprise. Chump
12
I feel like I was a bit harsh on the place. There's one benefit to this whole speakeasy trend: it promotes good, classic pre-prohibition drinks. It's refreshing to look at a drink menu and not have to weed through 20 elaborate infused vodka and tequila drinks to find a solid, simple drink with a whiskey or gin base. Ironically, these bars are usually decked out with almost every type of top-shelf spirit, obscure amaro and aperatif known to the OLCC. They don't serve near-toxic swill, watered down and dressed with a cornucopia of fruits -- which is the kind of cocktail they probably had in real speakeasies. I won't suggest that the black curtains should come down just because of an anachronism, but... really. This kind of trendy gimmick makes everything, and everybody, in a restaurant seem contrived.

Ironically, although I have no facial hair or, nor do I wear novelty glasses, on a glance I could pass very easily as the kind of snotty, privileged people I caricatured and said made me uncomfortable. Maybe some poor dude on the other side of the bar was thinking the same thing about me.
13
Who cares? "Yummy!" is all I have to say. Also that other bartender Ryan Fuhrman is pretty sweet.
14
Speakeasies served a hell of a lot of whisky and beer back in the day.I know that because my grandpa worked one in San Francisco.Foo-foo drinks were rare.I probably will never go to this place for the simple fact that I can drink the best booze a hell of a lot cheaper at home and this so called social life of criticizing everyone and every place is dumb and boring.I retire.Blah,blah,blah.Muddy Starfish deflates one final time.R.I.P.Suckers.Life happens away from this stupid computer.Get some.
15
Okay, revisited the place and unfortunately did not find it any better than I did the first time. I couldn't get a drink order in, so I eventually approached the bar. After waiting for a long while, the bar tender finally came to me and told me tersely, almost punitively, to have a seat because they will not take orders at the bar. Rules! FUN! I just left.

Internet Narc, I wasn't saying speakeasies didn't serve whiskey. I was saying that bootlegged liquor during prohibition was disgusting swill that had to be dressed up considerably in order to be remotely palatable. It was not a golden age for the cocktail -- quite the opposite. It was when many classic drinks died out and many, like the old fashioned, were mutilated (or should I say muddled?) beyond recognition. So the idea of a speakeasy that serves top shelf liquor and makes classic pre-proho drinks is... off.
16
I love this bar, and never felt judged or condescended to -- and I'm a working class gal, with access to some middle class resources -- if all our cards need to be on the table. I do wear glasses though. But that's not because I'm trying to be anything but visually capable; I can't see without them. Are semi-colons pretentious? Get over it.
We live in portland, and there are hipsters here. Good natured jokes, sure. Hatred? Come on. That's just silly and miserable.
I brought my lesbian lover, her gay brother and his boyfriend and their old Italian dad to Central. Everyone loved it and had a good time, and every time I've been the staff have been incredibly welcoming, kind, and clearly passionate about crafting special, delicious drinks. It's true that I can only really afford one drink (two if I'm drinking for dinner), but I think $8-9 for a fancy cocktail is pretty standard in this town, outside of the dive bar scene. I love how the space is designed, right down to the menus, and appreciate the artfulness and intention in this bar. If it's pretentious to authentically enjoy good design and creative drinks, then call me pretentious all the way to the PBR store. Also, I appreciate the no assholes policy. We've been gay bashed at down town spots enough times to appreciate a zero tolerance for douches standard.

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