Ed and Company
1505 NE Killingsworth, 331-8520

You've probably driven past Ed and Company on NE Killingsworth and 15th without giving it a second glance, because it's a yellow singlewide trailer, which for the longest time had no sign out front except for "OPEN." I mean, c'mon!! No sign? Regardless, they've got a nice sign now, and as it turns out, they sell barbecue and seafood gumbo that's DELICIOUS.

But here's the thing. They don't make it easy. You can get barbecue (along with catfish, chicken, and other Southern delicacies) Monday through Friday, but on Saturday and Sunday they serve seafood gumbo--and that's it! However, regardless of when you show up, you can't go wrong. The barbecue pork sandwich is heaped tall with tender succulent piggy drenched in a not-too-sweet sauce that goes great with fresh greens (which are never bitter) and dark, rich baked beans. And on the weekends, you get a tub of gumbo that's chock-full of crab, okra, hot sausage, chicken, scallops, gizzard, fish, and rice. And if you choose to soak that soup up with some Wonder Bread? Goddamn! That's good eatin'! WSH

Yuki
1337 NE Broadway, 281-6804

Yuki, the newest sushi-eating facility in Portland, falls into the category of good, but not amazing, sushi. This classification is largely due to the quality of fish at Yuki. All of the Nigiri is served in plump, beautiful pieces, the texture is soft and delicate, and not a trace of chewiness is detectable. The Sake (Salmon) is one of their best; the fish is a deep, reddish pink, and so fresh that it sits almost perkily on its bed of rice, which is also cooked with expertise to a consistency of delicate stickiness. The Yellowtail, too, is light, soft, plump, and divinely mild.

It is in the rest of the preparation that Yuki's ranking goes from top-notch to just pretty good. While the rice is good, the sauces that dress the fish pale in comparison. With both the Spicy Salmon (Salmon and cucumber with spicy sauce) and the Spicy Tekka roll (Tuna and cucumber roll with spicy sauce), the spicing is a weak, lackluster compliment to the fish. Similarly, the baked green mussels are dressed in a spicy mayonnaise sauce with roe--a common Japanese dish, but one that is over-spiced, stale, and too heavy.

Yuki is a good place for hardcore Nigiri lovers to take friends who don't like raw fish, as there are lots of cooked, noodle-based dishes, which are not great, but will surely suffice. KD