Edelweiss

3119 SE 12th Ave, 238-4411

This German deli delivers unparalleled brats, kraut, black forest turkey, and polishes at their lunch counter and deli. Any sausage (smoked brat, chili cheese, hungarian, dinner frank... ) on a bun is a steal at $2.60. The rueben is big enough to share ($4.99). And if you simply must eat veggies, try the yummy homemade split pea and ham soup. PA

Hoda's Middle-Eastern Cuisine

3401 SE Belmont, 236-8325

Hoda's great triumphs come from the oven. Baba gannoujh is smoky decadence for only $3.50 with all the fresh pita bread you care for. Oh, and the bread. Baked within seconds of being consumed, it is light enough to float off the plate, subtly tangy with natural leavening, and an integral part of the meal. Spinach pies and Middle Eastern pizzas are all spawned by the hands of someone who understands baking.

Without an obscene amount of garlic, Hoda's hummus leaves you able to identify the flavor of chick peas, which sink into the rich tahini. Hoda's hummus is a metaphor for the restaurant itself: Virtue is found in simplicity. RR

Du's Grill

5365 NE Sandy, 284-1773

Du's Grill. Bad. Bad like Michael Jackson. Mean, nasty, bad-assed bento. Trolling along Sandy Boulevard like a tarted up woman of the night. Sweet, chewy, and sinful. Grilled so masterfully as to produce crisp carcinogenic corners. Vegetables? Fuck 'em. A sorry little salad of lettuce and milky white garlic dressing will suffice. Try it with half chicken, half pork, or maybe even some old fashioned iron-rich beef--but then again, maybe not. Go for a whole portion; you can use the extra protein to go out and kick someone's ass. The sauce, which you apply yourself, is housemade and lighter and more complex than the standard syrupy sludge found elsewhere. If you choose to diversify, go with the pork. PL