I HAVE NO PATIENCE for people who say Portland has crappy Chinese food. Sure, we're no New York or San Fran, but there are a few mighty fine Szechuan joints, some very decent dim sum, and chewy handmade noodles in each quadrant. And now, rolling straight out of the Bay Area, we have Mama Chow's Kitchen, with some seriously soulful wonton soup and wings with a hard punch of umami. Mama Chow's is one of those gems that you can tell is going to make it, good press or not. It may not be the most traditional, but there are some well-balanced flavors coming out of Mama Chow's Kitchen—only adding to an ever-growing club of truly good Chinese restaurants in the area. So, haters, put that in your chopsticks and chew on it. ANDREA DAMEWOOD