Basa Basa serves crisp, lightly battered Korean-style chicken wings flavored with three fresh, expertly balanced Asian fusion sauces.

WHAT TO GET

They will happily mix and match sauces within an order, so trying all three in an initial "test" batch is a good way to start. The Original is sweet and spicy with fresh ginger, and the fresh teriyaki is tweaked to a rich perfection. The Basa Ono includes fish sauce, so while it is cut in the traditional manner with lime juice, those who find even a whiff of nuoc cham too strong will be happier with the other two. With sides of white rice and a mayonnaise-based macaroni salad, an order of six wings ($10 for the Basa Box) is enough for a meal. Don't miss the "ramen fries" ($2.75): They are a rare example of seasoned fries that are worth trying again. Chefs John and Caprial Pence put together a blend of orange rind, coriander, and other hard-to-deduce flavors for a dusting that works nicely with the potato, and a smooth, creamy garlic dipping sauce adds a well-matched, cool counterpoint.

-CHRIS ONSTAD

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