Breakside Brewery is, in a nutshell, a good brewpub, but with a few tweaks it could be a great brewpub. For all of the passionate and serious craft that is applied to their focused, successful, intelligent range of beers, the chicken wings are rubbery, and the calamari sheds a gluey batter (the latter was happily refunded). Their barrel-aged Bourbon Wheat Wine, a 12.7 percent knockout that drinks like a boilermaker from the planet Sex-9, is the stuff that fuels men to revolution; the nachos look like something a bachelor from Frankfurt microwaves on payday.

>There are many sure bets on the food menu. The cheeseburger ($11, $6 for the happy-hour version, which is identical but without fries) is truly excellent—half a pound of Country Natural Beef cooked to order, juicy and charred and unfussed with, a thick slice of aged cheddar (or pepperjack, or blue, or swiss) melting decadently across it. The beef stars more in this burger than in a dozen others I've tried this month—it is deeply satisfying.

Their imaginative and wide-ranging beer is their obvious raison d'être. Breakside's pride and joy is an award-winning dry stout, which took bronze in a field of 30 dry stout competitors at the 2012 Brewers Association World Beer Cup. It is dark, slightly bitter, light bodied, and true to the style of a light stout, with simple coffee flavor. At 4.2 percent, it's an all-dayer, and a growler for home is a great value at $12. Their Gin Barrel Lychee Wit (7.1 percent) is a fascinating medium-bodied sour not unlike a geuze, with a big fruity nose and long finish with developing juniper—a connoisseur's beer. Their standard Wit, at 4.4 percent, drinks like what you want a Budweiser-style beer to be, crisp and dry and dead simple.

-CHRIS ONSTAD

Restaurant Details

Featuring a rotating selection of beers on tap, Breakside helps neighbors the Fire House and Good Neighbor Pizzareia warm up the neighborhood. Big windowed garage doors open up to let nice weather, the vibe of the 'hood and even your pooch in. The menu consists of a nice selection of appetizers/shared plates, burgers and sandwiches (served with an option of salad or waffle fries. That's right, waffle fries(!!!)

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Price: $
Happy Hour Info: Sun-Thu 3pm-6pm

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