2934 NE Alberta, 282-0600
Specializing in 18'' pies, slices, and beer, Bella Faccia smartly gets back to the basics. Focusing specifically on the pizza's three main components (crust, sauce, cheese), this pizzeria attempts to bring out the best of each ingredient. After eating there five times, I've found the crust to be remarkably consistent in both crispness and flavor. Roughly thin as a quarter, it easily has the strength to keep its ingredients on the pie and out of your lap. The sauce is remarkably savory, with just a whisper of sweetness. The cheese is 100% whole milk mozzarella that is added with admirable restraint, instead of being a poorly rendered disguise.
Bella Faccia then takes it a step further with absolutely fresh vegetables and smoky meats. Get whatever you want on your pie; it's gonna be good. WSH
6120 NE Sandy, 284-4942
A two-egg breakfast at Tosis, the breakfast all-day diner, will run you about five bucks, will be ready to eat in about five minutes, and will be ever-reliably tasty. Lunch and dinner are much the same: both homey, hearty, and great. Their chicken gyro, comes with the standard fixings (grilled onions, tomato, cucumber yogurt sauce). Pay an extra buck and you get a huge side of feta cubes, and for another buck or so, soup, salad (try it with the tangy Greek dressing), or fries. For about eight bucks, you can get half a roasted chicken, (or meatloaf, fish, etc.) mashed potatoes, a vegetable, and soup or salad--all of which taste homemade and are absolutely too huge to finish. KS
524 NW 14th, 916-0099
Muted lights, a sleek bar, and slick-looking waiters juxtapose well against the bare wood beams that crisscross Holden's lofty ceiling. And while the look is swank, most of the dinners are familiar fare (burgers, skewers with rice or grits, steak, pasta, fish tacos) with a sly twist. It must have been tempting for Holden's to blindly follow the trend of over-stylized dishes, tossing in mango chutneys and oven-dried tomato spreads, but their restraint is appreciated. The blackened salmon is simple, juicy, and fresh--managing to retain the richness of the salmon while cooking out the fishiness. At only ten dollars and some change for most dinners, the quality is remarkably high. PB