Much has been made of her signature dish ("That's all we do," the website says), and there isn't any room for improvement. Anyone who cares about food in this town has likely eaten Nong's Khao Man Gai dozens of times: an $8 bundle of joy wrapped in butcher paper with chicken (white or dark meat, or a blend), rice, a few cucumbers, and soup. Extras include the mandatory chicken skins or the less-required chicken-fat poached livers, each $1. Nong has clearly mastered the art of specialization. She set out to make top-notch chicken and rice, and that's been done. ANDREA DAMEWOOD