You know what's great? Simplicity. Billy opened Okie Dokie's in May, and it's a one-man show. He cooks, cleans, takes orders, and delivers pizza in his own lil' blue micro Ford Fiesta, north to Burnside, south to Powell, east to 82nd, and west to the river, and he'll even expand the territory for special orders.

The basics: Eight kinds of deli-style sandwiches, which are cold and shivery or cooked like a hot sandwich should be cooked, toasted in a pizza oven. One such sandwich is the aptly named Roast Beef and Cheese, with unfeigned portions of beef, tomato, lettuce, onion, jalapenos, sliced garlic, and toasty roasted swiss cheese.

As for the rest of the cuisine, think hot chili and soup cooking in pots. Think pizza, six kinds, 16 toppings. For the chronically hip, there are a few cool tops to choose from: jalapenos, smoked oysters, soy cheese. But you will not get taro root, lemongrass, turtle chunks, hearts-of-palm (or palm fronds for that matter), on any sandwich or pizza. You want that crap, go to France.

Okie Dokie's is also the best place on the strip for a picnic. In fact, it's the only place with outdoor seating this fine. It consists of an old yard with dandelions popping up, and it's shaded by filbert and fig trees, set 30 feet off the sidewalk. From here, diners get a first class view of the Hawthorne scene, but on lawn-chairs, baby. Lawn-chairs.

One hint: Don't show up on Sunday. Billy takes one day off a week, and that's it. Billy's there 11 am to 10 pm, Monday-Saturday. No sooner, no later, and not on Sunday. Got that? Bill's an honest man, serving honest meals.

Oh, and have a beer before you go, because Okie Dokie's is a dry county. Enjoy the grass and the view. Eat something. You look famished.