IN EVERY MEDIUM, there are artists who have "the line"—an innate feeling for their tools, and the ability to create work that looks natural, comfortable, and effortless. The pastries at the Sugar Cube are clearly created by someone who has "the line" in her chosen medium. Kir Jensen turned her cult-favorite dessert cart into a proper shop on NE Alberta, and now five days a week the cases and trays are filled with treats of such consistent richness, tenderness, and curb appeal that I've had to seriously recalibrate my expectations of what baked goods can be. CHRIS ONSTAD