As the name might suggest, Three Pigs is pork heavy. Even the few non-pig items beckon you to add bacon. The Cubano's ($8) sliced ham is some of the most succulent I've ever tasted, and it is complemented by Gruyère cheese and sweet housemade pickles. The ratio is perfect—no one item overwhelms. The sandwich is served on grilled como bread from Grand Central Bakery. The meatball sandwich ($8) isn't what you might expect, but it's far from a disappointment. Instead of a stuffing a French roll, Capalupo crushes the meatballs into a panini-friendly layer, and the bread is dotted with a melted hard cheese.
While it might not be the ideal pasture for vegetarians to graze in, Three Pigs has at least one excellent meat-free sandwich. I ordered the grilled broccoli and ricotta sandwich ($8), and even resisted the urge to add bacon...FOR YOU, herbivores. The broccoli was cooked to a perfect texture; never did it crumble, and never did it verge on too crisp. The cheese was slathered on generously, and was full of mixed herbs. I did have some meat with this particular lunch, a pleasantly surprising bacon-and-bean soup ($4). The house-cured bacon was transcendent, and for such a light broth, it had tremendous flavor. TONY PEREZ