Oswaldo Bibiano (Autentica, Mextiza) puts his trademark sophistication on a menu of 21 tacos at this slick, pared-down taqueria. The offerings are ambitious, the success rate is high, and if "gourmet taco" didn't sound so oxymoronic, that would be a good way to describe these.

WHAT TO GET

The quality and flavor in each taco make $2 a fair price despite the petite presentation. Small, sturdy, fresh corn tortillas hold a generous mound of your selected fillings, and a squeeze-bottle salsa bar of a half-dozen fresh, house-made concoctions (I wish the puree of fried jalapeños was a standard at all Mexican restaurants) encourages experimentation..

-CHRIS ONSTAD

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