On the lucrative neighborhood corner of Northeast 15th and Fremont, Daddy Mojo's restaurant finds itself in a constant state of idle Grand Opening. Started by the former co-owner of Sweetwater's restaurant and Mojo's in Vancouver, this latest inception seeks to capitalize on the soul of Portland. The word Mojo has roots in voodoo and is a term for the medicine man. Also, to poise the customer for an authentic New Orleans experience, the menu ties itself to the blues--appropriate, considering the name and cuisine.
When I walked in, however, I was immediately hit in the face with the questionable decorating skills. Light wood paneling provides a backdrop for poster store sale items and crappy memorabilia. Oafish, country styled chairs crowd around wood tables, and an excess of lights seem to be clamoring to highlight the ugliest focal point. Not to mention the stuffy air that pushed me and my dining partner to a table outside, putting us on display for the 5000 cars that drove by during the course of our meal.
Daddy Mojo's menu consists of an adequate amount of Cajun and American food options. Crawfish, halibut, and catfish spotted the menu along with a special half-pound mojo burger, fries, and onion rings. While these items would fit nicely on any Southern style menu, they sparked confusion when you noticed the prices.
Carolina ribs run you about $15 dollars here, halibut parmesan is $16, and that mojo burger with cheese? Nine freekin' Cajun big ones. I had to find out what an $8 Caesar salad tasted like in a place that spent roughly the same amount on their "artwork," and what I got was lettuce drowning in mediocre Caesar dressing, with bread croutons and shredded parmesan. Nothing special.
My dining partner's side salad contained Goldfish (the cracker form) with a side of raspberry vinaigrette. Her main course was the sweet potato cakes, which I admit, didn't garner a single complaint. They tasted authentic enough; not too sweet with a good blend of veggies and a side of Cajun rice.
I ordered the breaded catfish, which consisted of three appropriately cooked catfish strips, with a hearty outside and juicy texture. They would prove to be the only tolerable food item in my basket. The fish was also accompanied by two Cajun fried bread balls, and some bizarre coleslaw that tasted like strips of latex in red sauce, joined by two triangles of bread so greased up they were orange. It's possible this orange grease bread is a New Orleans delight, but to me it tasted like Carmex and caused a chirping sound in my aorta.
The fish and bread balls sat on a nest of "home cut" fries that resembled something tasty, had it been above room temperature. Oh yes, and the dish came garnished with a lemon wedge pierced with an American flag; an obvious attempt to appeal to the lowest common denominator.
It should be noted that our server was very relaxed, knowledgeable, and pleasant. Daddy Mojo's also has a full bar, and with the lack of bars in the neighborhood, this could prove a stronger side of the business. It is definitely in need of some strong side, because, I don't foresee any amount of Voodoo magic that will lure me back.
