Breaking the Mold
Chalino Gets Inventive with Mexican
Döner Kebab Forever
Spitz Specializes in the Turkish Granddaddy of Street Food
Ray, Rain or Shine
Jenn Louis Proves Celebrity-Chef Status with New Israeli Restaurant
Jackrabbit Hops Over the Top
SF Celeb Chef Shows You Can Take Decadence Too Far
Thereâs a Lot of Thai to Be Thankful For
Farmhouse Thai, Paadee’s Issan Nights, and Pok Pok NW
East European Wines on the Rise
Obscure Wines That Might Just Blow Your Mind
The Jell-O Shot Mega List
The Best Bars for Gettin' Jiggly with It
The Cocktail Explorerâs Club
Local Drinks (and Drinkeries) You Have to Try
Digesting Feast
A Recap of Portland’s Most Popular Food Festival
Interview with the Foodie
Where Gary Okazaki—AKA Gary the Foodie—Sees Portland’s Culinary Scene Going
Brunch Outside the Box
Breaking Out of the Breakfast Rut
Soul Food, Redefined
Salimatu Amabebe’s Nigerian Pop-ups Are Spicing Up Portland’s Vegan Food Scene
The Mercuryâs Fall Eat & Drink Guide
Prepare for the Season of Eating!
A Beginnerâs Guide to Portland Beer
What to Drink, and Where to Drink It.
Every year, Feast Portland sweeps through the city like a whirling dervish of wine, smoked meats, cocktails, and small power-packed bites. Portlandâs just coming off this yearâs go-round of bacchanalia, so weâre taking a moment to digest, with bite-sized tips, tricks, and reviews designed to get us hungry for 2018.
This year marked the sixth for what is undoubtedly the most encompassing food festival on the West Coast, featuring 134 chefs, 31 wineries, 15 breweries, and nearly 18,000 attendees. Feastâs timing is very particular: In the peak of summer, itâs impossible to get partnerships with already tourist-packed venues and bugged-out chefs, and any later in the season risks serious weather complications.
Festival co-founder Mike Thelin said he felt that 2017 was the best year yet, with weather, chefs, planning, and all the elements coming together to create âevent magic.â But in a post-Feast email chat, Thelin also said in our new, intense political climate, the festival provided a chance to blow off some steam.
âThere has been so much negativity in the air for the past year,â he continued, âand Portlanders, now more than ever, need reasons to come together and celebrate the people, places, and things they love.â
Here are our highlights, lowlights, and other tasty bites.
HIGHLIGHTS
Smoked!
Now finishing its third year, Smoked is BY FAR the best of the marquee events. This is where the big-gun chefs bust out their biggest flavors: A line at least 100 deep formed around a collab bite between Mattâs BBQ and Langbaanâs Earl Ninsom, where a spicy as fuck jungle curry was hand-poured over each tender bite of brisket and garlic rice, and San Franciscoâs Liholiho Yacht Club offered house-made spam sandwiches that were achingly tender and delightfully salty. Bonus points to the volunteers who formed a dance line out of the event for meat-sweaty and wine-soaked revelers.
Collab Dinners!
If youâve got the means (and a good internet connection), I highly recommend snapping up one of the collaborative dinners when 2018 rolls around. Feast brings in big names from all over (Fat Rice in Chicago! Christina Tosi from Milk Bar in NYC!), but often the small bite format served to hundreds isnât the best representative of their wizardry. I was lucky enough to eat at Thursday nightâs Convivencia dinner at Plaza Del Toro, with headlining chef Michael Solomonov of Philadelphiaâs pioneering Zahav. With more than 10 courses made with John Gorham, Sam Smith, and Kasey Mills, it was a true Mediterranean treat. Considering Iâm unlikely to make it to Philly in the near future, itâs a whole lot more convenient than a plane ticket.
Parties!
The after-parties are the stuff of Feast legend, and itâs almost not fair to bring it up here since many of them arenât open to the general public. But thatâs changing, as more restaurants and venues launch post-9 pm events that are Feast-adjacent. Han Oak had a pop-up almost every night in its party-ready space, Chalino hosted a free-for-all for Christina Tosiâs Milk Bar, and the Saturday Farmerâs Market is a sure-fire way to rub shoulders with out-of-town chefs agog at our late summer harvest. Even if you canât get a ticket, keeping your eyes on social media will guarantee some decadent fun.
LOWLIGHTS
Stale Sandwich
After six years, itâs hard to keep the main events feeling freshâand none more so than the Sandwich Invitational. According to other attending Merc critics, this year was better than before, but itâs probably time to find another format. Portland may be at peak sandwich, but the event is past its prime. Thelin says itâs too soon to say whatâs going to shift around, but added: âEvery year we learn what things work, what things donât, and what things could work better. We talk internally about what we like and what needs to change. We talk to chefs and partners. We visit other festivals here and in Portland. Most of all, we have an inspired group of team members who are not willing to rest on their laurels.â
Too Many Sweets
The Grand Tasting isnât the best event, but itâs a stalwart filler event that allows for larger crowds, something to fill your days between other nighttime events, and a crap-ton of great wineries. But this year the bites went out of whack, with almost every vendor offering a sweet bite. After sampling all that wine, itâs a bit much.
Machismo
Some chefs canât seem to help themselves. At a lunch featuring lovely Washington wines at Jackrabbit, celeb chef Chris Cosentino addressed the assembled journalists with a note that his restaurant is in the new Duniway Hotel, named after Portlandâs most famous suffragette. He then talked about how Portland has the highest per-capita number of strip clubs and that his tribute to âworking girlsâ is a bunch of âham assâ on a âstripper poleâ in the meat room. UGH.
OTHER TASTY BITES
Preview Nibbles
Feast also was a pre-opening idea fest for local chefs who are planning to open restaurants soon. One of the best bites at this yearâs Night Market was the inihaw na liempo, grilled pork belly in banana leaf, from Carlo Lamagna. Meanwhile Doug Adams, of the upcoming Bullard, was literally everywhere, serving up tastes of his Texas-inspired cuisine.
Next Year
Dates are already set for September 13-16, 2018. If timing is anything like this year, look for the lineup and ticket sales to go live in May. And be ready!