Chris - Do you know what an Italian beef sandwich is? There isn't necessarily a right or wrong when it comes to excess jus. Italian beefs can be ordered wet or dry, and either way, you are going to get some jus on the sandwich that soaks through the bread a little.
I'd like to read a review of this place from somebody who actually knows of Chicago food. Was he not aware at all of the nature of Chicago deep dish pizza?
The basic structure of the pie you're describing sounds like anything you'd get at Malnati's, Giordanos, or Gino's East. At any of those places, eating the first slice of a pie is a tricky operation (cheese stays molten longer under all that sauce), but after a few minutes it settles down a little and then you can inhale.
I haven't tried the pie at Via Chicago yet (haven't been back to PDX in a year or so) but your experience as detailed in the review just sounds like someone eating deep dish for the first time after a life of thinner-crust pizza. You eat 2-3 slices max, wash it down with a pitcher of beer then go enjoy your coma.
I believe the "store-bought" bread is actually from the local Grand Central Bakery, so it's basically as fresh as it gets without eating at the bakery.
Onstad's writing has improved alot since he took this gig but he should really stick to reviewing cutesy clever "portland-y" food. He doesn't seem to know very much at all about real people food.
I have not been to Via, so won't comment of whether this is accurate but I agree with another commenter in that it doesn't sound like this was Onstad's type of thing. The pizza does not sound that compelling to me
I only went to Via Chicago once, but every part of the experience was a disaster. From the order-taking, lost the order, gave me the wrong topping when I got my pizza etc... The cheese was good quality and they gave me a free glass of wine. But, I will never go back to there as long as there are three other better places on Alberta street alone.
The basic structure of the pie you're describing sounds like anything you'd get at Malnati's, Giordanos, or Gino's East. At any of those places, eating the first slice of a pie is a tricky operation (cheese stays molten longer under all that sauce), but after a few minutes it settles down a little and then you can inhale.
I haven't tried the pie at Via Chicago yet (haven't been back to PDX in a year or so) but your experience as detailed in the review just sounds like someone eating deep dish for the first time after a life of thinner-crust pizza. You eat 2-3 slices max, wash it down with a pitcher of beer then go enjoy your coma.