Portland Saturday Market, Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday 11 am to 4:30 pm, $4.25-$6.25

Believe it or not, there really is a reason to venture into the fetid mass of unwashed, greedy, zig-zagging humanity known as Saturday Market. And that would be for a plate of yakisoba noodles with lemon chicken at the Hawaiian-Style Foods booth.

This is a heaping plate of food we're looking at here. Tumbled to the side are about seven to 10 chunks of chicken, splashed in a dark brown sauce. The tangy sauce, which registers somewhere on the flavor scale between a soy sauce and a beef sauce, mingles with the tender chicken, which goes perfectly with the grilled noodles. These are long, straw colored masterpieces with a rich, addictive taste and the fullness and flavor of a really good bread.

Booth owner Jason Kaaina says the thing that makes his plate different and better than any others is the sauce; "It's that sauce that elevates the dish into the augustan heights." He won't say anything more.

But he should know what he's talking about. Kaaina has been running the stand for five years, taking it over from his parents, who have been in the business for 25 years.

Kaaina is usually there himself, dishing out the chicken, and he is an amazingly friendly face to front the place, given the workload. He says he can easily average 500 people in one day.

That makes sense. The stand is easy to find: its rear end abuts Front Avenue in the uncovered parking lot. Just expect to wait a several minutes in a long line that snakes its way into the wretched of the earth who are meandering behind you. The noodles are worth the wait.