Via Delizia's interior is astonishing, it's like dining alfresco in Tuscany, complete with a giant indoor tree. It is like the Disney ride of wine bars and is kind of awesomely dorky. It sort of walks the line between restaurant and café (they prefer "bistro"), and while you can order a full meal or just pop in for some gelato, it's also an intimate spot to have a perfectly reasonably priced glass of wine ($5 for the house variety, with only a few glasses that tip over the $10 mark). The only real drawback is that they close early... then again, what are you still doing out in condo-land at that hour? MARJORIE SKINNER