Photo ny Andrea Damewood

Critic's note: This occasional entry is about stuff that I eat or drink that you should eat or drink, too. It may be about items that are locally made, or they may not be, but you'll be able to find them in town. And you should.

CHRIST, I LOVE a toasted mallow. Apparently I have the palate of an overeager, overweight eight-year-old on her first Girl Scout camping trip, because that sticky, roasty, melty sugar really does it for this gal.

White Owl Social Club brings you supplies to toast your own, but I'm not about to sit in pelting November rain for my fix. The Fireside on NW 23rd brings you precious squares of marshmallow on bitter dark chocolate and thin graham cracker—but it's just not the best. The Knock Back ditches the chocolate and graham, and adds booze to their housemade mallows. For just 50 freaking cents, a bartender will spear a spun sugar cube infused with Fernet, grab a handheld blowtorch and create a golden-brown drinking snack for the ages. Order a stout and add a mallow. There should be a merit badge for that.

The Knock Back, 2315 NE Alberta,