SUMMER’S BEEN OFF to a slow start, heat wise, but Portland’s finally getting hot enough to declare pants optional. You might not think “ramen” on an 85-plus-degree day, but that’s your first mistake. Cold ramen—delicious cold broths or dressed-up salads—are crispy, refreshing, and a great way to get your noodle fix until fall. Here are a few of our favorite places to find cold ramen (which should always be accompanied by an ice-cold Kirin).
Marukin Ramen
609 SE Ankeny, Ste. A, and Pine Street Market, 126 SW 2nd
The clear broth in Marukin’s hiyashi ramen belies some serious flavor. Most cold ramen is served dry, or it’s tarted up like a salad, but this is a cold broth of chicken and pork bone with shoyu seasoning—and it arrives as clear as any French consommé. This $10 bowl also gets pickled tomatoes, shoyu marinated chicken, spiced shiitake mushrooms, napa cabbage, green onions, leeks, and leek oil. It’s the leader of the city’s cold ramen pack, to be sure.
Akasaru Ramen
2712 NE Alberta
At this new spot from the owners of Mississippi’s Samurai Blue sushi restaurant, you can get any of their four ramen flavors made into a cold version if you ask. It’s largely the same bowl as the hot versions (all $10), except a wonton topping is swapped for ridiculously tasty shiitake mushrooms. The shoyu cold bowl kept its unctuous meaty essence even without a broth, but the best we tried was the spicy miso, with noodles coated in a red paste that had a slow, pleasant burn.
