My dinner companion is chewing deliberately, the corners of
her mouth turning upward in a slight smile. The skin around her eyes
and the tops of her cheeks begins to glow, like she’s been lit from
inside. She inhales sharply, waving a hand in front of her face. It’s a
proven fact: Curry makes you more attractive. By extension, the
gosht vindaloo at East India Co. will likely make you the
prettiest person in the room.
Located downtown, behind the Central Library, East India Co. is
Portland’s latest high-end Indian food emporium (see also Bombay
Cricket Club and Vindalho). The interior proclaims its Brahman-esque
status with plenty of sparkle. Two large chandeliers dominate the foyer
and a sleek black bar leads to a spacious dining room with an
impressive, domed, red glass ceiling.
There’s plenty to take in as you figure out how the hell to get a
table. Both nights I ate at East India Co. there was no one to seat my
party and no host podium. Not that a host would have come anyway. But
after managing to get seated, my table was a comfortable place to
peruse East India Co.’s exorbitantly priced menu. This is likely the
most expensive sub-continental fare in Portland, with entrée
prices ranging from $12 to 21 (without naan).
Overpriced? Yes, but aside from a regrettable, fish-stick-tinged
crab cake, every dish I ate at East India Co. was a study in heat and
dynamic flavor, like the glow-inducing gosht vindaloo. In this
dish, small bites of lamb are set off by notes of cinnamon and imbued
with perfect pot roast flavor, melting against the tongue. Heat comes
slowly from the back of the palate and fills the mouth with bright
fire. Tied up with delicate sweetness, and tempered with pulao rice
(thankfully complimentary), it is delicious.
On the vegetarian side, the saag paneer, roasted paneer
cheese in mild spinach sauce, is quite good. The small cubes of
homemade cheese have the consistency of a soft mozzarella and a bit of
smoke. Swimming in cardamom-enhanced spinach sauce, the roundness of
the dish is spiked with bits of spicy ginger.
The creamy navratan korma, also vegetarian, has lovely
sweetness and heat. The subtle sugar of raisins works incredibly
against savory cashew sauce. Add seasonal vegetables for substantial
texture and everything is harmonious.
However, the best dish on the menu is the murg makhani, or
“butter chicken,” a staple in southeast Indian restaurants. The chicken
is perfectly tender with an amazing smoky grill flavor. Again, there is
a bit of sweetness, but it’s combined with notes of citrus and heat
from a creamy tomato curry. Add a “hard” mango lassi into the mix and
splurge for a basket of garlic naan, and your happiness and a lighter
wallet is assured.
East India Co. should definitely work on their front-of-house staff,
who seem a bit hurried and overworked, even in a barely populated
dining room. Skip it and sit at the bar for happy hour, where
tandoori-style chicken wings are a delectable steal at $3 a plate.
I’m still not sure if East India Co.’s offerings are worth their
cost. But for me, beauty through curry is priceless. You could do worse
than this tandoori Taj Mahal.