The first review I wrote for the Mercury was of Wayne’s Chicago Red Hots in North Portland. Randy Sanders (who named his shop after his dad) had just opened his storefront in NE Portland after years of operating a cart in Warren, Oregon. Wayne’s is little more than an indoor food cart. Sanders, sticking with what he knows, looks to have built the dining area around a large central cart-like kitchen, the huge bay of windows along the south wall faithfully provides the feeling of dining outdoors. Yet, there are some restaurant comforts: flat screens for Cubs games, a long bar with fairly comfy seating, walls plastered with Chicago sport memorabilia, and of course a ceiling to keep out inclimate inclement weather.
I’m happy to report that over a year since that review, I can still go to Wayne’s to get a red hot, watch the Cubbies play, and sip a cheap Old Style. For Sanders, moving indoors has certainly worked out.
Since that review I’ve seen other transient restaurateurs move their game to more permanent digs. Pine State Biscuits went from Farmers Market Cult Favorite to National Media Sweetheart in about 2 seconds after hanging their shingle on Belmont. Farmers Market pizza purveyor Tastebud moved into a lovely space on Milwaukee (which reminds me that I need to check out their spring menu). Also, popular PSU pizza cart Al Forno Ferruzza has found a storefront on Alberta. And who could forget No Fish! Go Fish!, operating two carts and a Hawthorne restaurant. In at least one case, it was just the chef that moved: Kir Jensen of the Sugar Cube dessert cart was hired on at Two Tarts Bakery in NW Portland just months ago.
With new carts opening at a steady clip, I’m curious how many of the operators have indoor aspirations. For some, it seems that they are just shy of being an actual restaurant. The Grilled Cheese Grill, for instance is just a foundation short of being what I’d consider an immobile eatery. Their lot is expertly manicured and their indoor bus seating lacks only table service.
The cart to restaurant plan would seem like a good one. What better way to get your game down than cooking out of a mobile kitchen with low overhead for a few hours each weekday (or in the case of Farmer Market stalls, two days a week)? It’s a great way to build buzz, as well as a customer base, while banking the capital to put money down on a lease.
Don’t get me wrong. I’m not suggesting that restaurants are somehow better than carts. In fact, I enjoy the charm of a cart, and the fluidity and creativity often presented in their menus. Still, there are those who just wont eat out of a cart (elitist bastards) because of perceived food safety issues, or bias towards comfortable dining and eager-to-please wait staff. Personally, I feel a cart has an agility that just can’t be matched by a restaurant with a full time staff, regular hours, more bills, etc.
Still, its very likely that many of the carts we love and cherish will attempt to move off the streets in years to come. I wonder, Blogtownies, is there a cart on the street you’d like to see transition to restaurant? Why? Hit the comments.
I believe the weather that a ceiling keeps out is “inclement.”
Sawasdee Thai needs to open a second location… on my face.
Thanks, Satchel. Spell check didn’t catch that one.
I am curious how the Emergency Ordinance #767 to heavily regulate outside tables and increase fees that City Council is voting on this Wednesday will affect food carts.
If you have a chance is a major change to city code for restaurants that have outdoor seating on sidewalks:
http://www.portlandonline.com/auditor/index.cfm?c=50265&a=247659
Some disturbing city wide changes and additions to the code are:
– It prohibits outdoor cooking
– Requires a letter signed by the property owner, consenting to a sidewalk cafe adjacent to the property on which the restaurant is located
– A color rendition in perspective for review by the Bureau of Development Services shall be furnished upon request by the City Engineer
I was getting fucking sick of Pinestate. I was living across the street from them, and on the weekends their stupid clientel just blocked up the sidewalk and made life unbearable.
Their are so many better brunch options within ten blocks of the place. People! DON’T STAND IN LINE FOR AN HOUR TO GET SOME MOTHERFUCKING BISCUITS’N’GRAVY!
AAAH!
Other than that, I love me some cart food. I ate at Whiffies last Friday. That was some ON NOM NOM. And I can’t wait for KoiFusionPDX to finally get some evening hours.
Also, what’s the legal policy of drinking at 12th and Hawthorne? Can I bring a sixer with me and drink it?
Graham, if the lot is owned privately, I don’t think there would be a police problem (if public though, see http://www.portlandonline.com/auditor/inde…). Obviously, there’s no liquour license problem if the carts don’t sell or otherwise furnish the alcohol. My hunch, however, is that excluding people who bring their own alcohol is part of the lease agreement the cart owners have with the owner of the lot (it would certainly be in my lease agreement if I owned the lot). I’d ask a couple of the cart operators if they know for sure.
here’s some trash-talk about the red-hots place:
http://www.goner-records.com/board/index.p…
Great question. I think for some, having the cart is the dream. It is definately cheaper and easier to manage financially. For others, I think you hit the nail on the head that a cart allows for one to learn and work out kinks before tackling a restaurant. Also, as one cart owner put it – “there’s cart money and there’s restaurant money” One is a lot more than another.
Nong’s Khao man ghai is now my fave lunch munch.
Most of the carts that I love are perfect as carts. There’s a special combination of great food and accessibility. Take Tabór, for example; wonderful food, of course. But would the amazing eggplant sandwich be worth a trip out for dinner? Maybe not with the price increase that would have to come with it. They’d have to find a different balance, like Pok Pok.
There are a few I’d love as restaurants more, though. #1 Bento, perhaps. Chopollo’s would be great as a restaurant. Freaking awesome Mexican near PSU — they make incredible vegetarian huarache.
Los Gorditos needs to get a cute little restaurant!!
If you write about Portland, shouldn’t you know it is Milwaukie, not Milwaukee?
Howdy, Cuisine Bonne Femme here from Portland Food Carts. (http://www.foodcartsportland.com)
It’s an interesting topic and Patrick you’ve nailed something. Here’s the deal as I see it:
Multnomah County is pretty clear. If it is on wheels, or something there of (Axles say), it’s a cart.
The carts will not be effected by the new City rules, unless they are in a public right of way (such as a street hot dog vendor). That law is about public rights-of-way, not privately owned commercially zoned properties (where most carts are currently located).
As for the other stuff. I do think with such rapid growth of the cart scene we are going to come to some sort of head at some point with neighborhood complaints of noise, garbage, etc and the fine line between cart and compound. I do know for a fact that the City is very supportive of the carts overall. They meet a whole bunch of planning goals for active street use (rather than underutilized surface parking lots), help create locally owned small businesses and individual wealth creation, and well, just about everyone thinks they are cool and a good benefit to our City.
I do think they will have tighter regulations at some point, but am not sure yet what that means.
If the carts were smart they would start organizing a Cart Guild right now, similar to what NYC did when Guiliani tried to outlaw them. A guild would give the carts some organizing and political power so that they can at least have a stronger voice over city decisions that affect them