The most surprising thing about last Saturday’s annual Art Institute
fashion show? It wasn’t dominated by statement pieces. In a student
show, I expect looks that lean toward showmanship. Instead, this show
was full of many simple, well-constructed, wearable items. The kind of
looks that demonstrate not only skill, but also restraint and an
understanding (and acceptance) of the retail market.

Personally, I think it takes a lot more imagination and talent to
make a black bolero jacket look fresh and modern than it does to create
an elaborate gown, so when someone does it, as did Janeane Marie
Ceccanti, I’m impressed.

I was similarly caught by Allison Silvis‘ ’70s-style career
collection. It was fun, fresh, and relevant—there really isn’t a
place for power suits in the modern office, but a plum V-neck jumper
paired with a ruffled blouse? Totally appropriate, especially in
Portland.

Not quite as easy, but still completely wearable (by a certain kind
of confident girl), was Emily Kathryn Carol‘s collection. A
subdued neutral palette—gray, black, and brown with touches of
gold—added a bit of austerity to her playful silhouettes. A
little contradiction always makes things more interesting.

One of the prettiest and, judging by the amount of applause it
garnered, most popular was Althee Smith‘s expertly detailed
collection. Her fitted, soft gray trench had just enough delicate
touches to make it special, without going over the top.

I was psyched that two of the designers made forays into serious
outerwear. Kara Eisenbraun made warm, quilted jackets that
managed to look kicky and young; David Rafn showed a glorious,
glossy full-length men’s raincoat that would protect one from a
monsoon, let alone a Portland winter. I hope both of them stay
here—this is exactly the kind of daring practicality we’ve been
lacking.

Now, I’m not saying there weren’t statement pieces, or that I didn’t
appreciate them. Any good show should have its share of outlandish or
intellectual items. I adored the red-and-white striped ruffle-front
playsuit that led Sarah Vale Rapp‘s excellent collection, even
if it’s not exactly street friendly. Similarly, I might not be able to
pull off Joshua Buck‘s tunic coat, but I appreciate how that
piece in particular brought up so many images—from Logan’s
Run to ancient Mesopotamia.

I wish I had room to give every student their due—honestly,
this was one of the best shows I’ve seen in a while. Visit mod.portlandmercury.com to see
photos from every collection!