Taqueria Apatzingan
NE 15th & Killingsworth

Before I moved out West, I was a staunch Mexican food hater. This is because I lived in Iowa City, and had Mexican food options limited to Taco Bell and a honkey-run restaurant called Gringo's, famous for their 16-ounce margaritas. Gringo's was also staffed by sorority ho's. The moral of that story is: Leave the making of the Mexican food to the Mexican people, because they're way better at it.

Taqueria Apatzingan is probably the tenth example of this truth in Northeast PDX alone, and their example is one of the best. Markedly, the meat at Apatzingan is fresh tasting, expertly seasoned, and not marbled with gristle. The beef tacos include nothing besides marinated pieces of steak, onions, and a sprinkling of cilantro--and they're fabulous. The enchiladas stuffed with chicken are remarkable because they aren't baked into a pan and smothered with cheese. The corn tortillas are moist, wrapped airily around the chicken, and covered with a tasty, mild red chili sauce, lettuce, tomato, and a drizzle of sour cream.

Burritos, while seemingly simple, are often spoiled by the assembly-line glopping of one ingredient next to another. Oh no, my friend, not here: These burritos are light on the sauce and rice, and provide plenty of meat, veggies, and beans.

My only complaint about the food at Apatizingan: The pork in the quesadilla is chopped and greasy. I prefer the drier, slow-cooked chunks of pork that grace the La Bonita's killer quesadilla. My favorite Mexican food item, the refried beans, are a cornerstone--authentic and soupy, and sprinkled with strong Mexican cojita cheese. This authenticity and attention to detail is the real strength of the food at Apatzingan.

The same cannot be said for their ramshackle decorating. The floor is cement, there is no music, and the table feng shui is just off. This is not a place for the West Hills set (go to Esparanza's)--but for shoddy decorating you trade relatively cheap prices--$4.75 for the quesadilla dinner, $6 for the taco or enchilada dinner, $3 for a burrito--and this, plus the ultra-high quality eats more than make up for the décor.