Next Tuesday (Feb 10 at Doug Fir, $10-12) will be the fourth annual Unmentionable lingerie fashion show, a welcome newish winter tradition in which local designers of enticing underthings will present their latest wares. It's loosely a Valentine's thing, and there will also be relevant vendors like Imaginary Authors and SheBop, but the main event is the runway itself. Exhibitionists representing the likes of Lille Boutique, Chubby Cartwheels, and Altar will walk, and last year's Unmentionable sensation, Rachel Rector, will also make a return.
Rector actually left Portland for New York a little over a year ago, and recently relocated again, this time to Gainesville, Florida. But Portland still likes to claim her, in part because her color-blocked, sheer-paneled bodysuits and separates are so fucking cool. I caught up with Rector in anticipation of next week's show, and we talked about the inspiration of location, nontraditional models, and more (plus more photos), beyond the cut.
On residency status:
I lived in Portland for four beautiful years, but New York had been courting me my whole life. When a few of my close friends invited me to live with them in Williamsburg, I couldn't refuse. I imagined myself shopping among the dozens of trim and fabric shops in the Garment District, visiting sample rooms to oversee production, and pitching the line to "cool girl" celebrities at rooftop parties. And actually, all of those things did happen! But after a year in the city I was ready for a change, and while I had imagined growing old in NY, once I left I didn't look back.
In Florida my day starts leisurely in the sunshine, and I throw myself into sewing feeling relaxed and free to experiment. My life is more casual here; I have space to spread out, rent is cheap, and there is tons of potential for Gainesville to grow (I've said it before: It could be the next Portland!). Right now there isn't much of a fashion scene here, but I plan to help change that. I want to put on a fashion show, to bring together designers, and I daydream about opening up a boutique that sells products from Portland, Brooklyn, and beyond. I also want to set up in-house production so I have full control over manufacturing and can put out collections on my own time.
On choosing lingerie:
Do you remember the Unforeseen Circumstances fashion show that Lille put on five or so years back? That's the moment I remember falling in love with lingerie. I was so in awe of the unique styles of UC set in the cool, comfortable ambiance of Lille. The designer, Teo [Griscom] was incredible. She was young, successful, and talented, and when I spoke to her after the show she was completely down to earth and relatable. I convinced [Lille owner] Sarah [Wizemann] to give me a job, then I spent my days holding the delicate pieces in my hands, examining the stitches, feeling the fabrics between my fingers, and learning the stories of independent designers. Eventually, I wanted to develop my own story.
On not using professional models:
My models are often my friends or myself, and the photoshoots are always informal. I love photography, so making photos with the pieces is just an extension of creating them. Most of the time these shoots happen on a whim, without much prep, just some friends, a camera, and a good time. The amazing thing is the transformation I see happen when women put on the lingerie. Suddenly my friends are glowing goddesses who radiate confidence. I love it.
On current inspirations:
I am endlessly inspired by the nature in Florida: Lush landscapes, saturated sunsets, and strange plants never fail to amaze me. I've introduced white to my color palette, which is a refreshing change. I'm steering away from total colorblocking and geometric paneling, and choosing styles that are simple, comfortable, and easy to mix and match. I've fallen in love with a gauzy sheer sweater knit. I also hand dyed many of the fabrics in the new collection.
Unmentionable: A Lingerie Exposition, Doug Fir, 830 E Burnside, Tues Feb 10, 8 pm, $10, 12. Find Rachel Rector's work on sale locally at Palace and Backtalk, or online.