Gracie’s has long been on my list of brunch places to try-I like the Hotel deLuxe where it’s housed and was thinking it might have the intimate coolness of the adjoining Driftwood Bar. But Gracie’s is a different creature altogether. Grown up, respectable, the room had soft carpet, high ceilings, chandeliers and marble tables, a gilded Old World charm. It’s the place to bring visiting parents or a date in order to demonstrate you know what a napkin is for and how a knife and fork work together properly. It would have had that hushed, almost sterile atmosphere of respect if it wasn’t for some kids banging forks on the table and screaming for attention. So much for fairy tales.
My guest and I were seated next to each other in a booth; cute and comfy, except that it was at the exact angle facing another booth so any time I looked up from my food across the room I immediately met the eyes of another diner. Maybe it’s a way to increase socialization, get people talking, but I feel I have enough friends already. I tried to keep my eyes down, my looks to myself.
But to the food and drink. The mimosas were cracking—lovely bubbles with freshly squeezed juice, enough for two glasses each—and the Nossa Familia coffee did its thing to my nervous system. I chose the smoked salmon hash, which came with poached eggs and crème fraiche, and this was a little humdrum. Nothing particularly wrong with it, but nothing to get particularly enthusiastic about either. It made great comfort food, but comfort food that cost $15. My companion’s huevos rancheros ($14) was better—the plate was huge, the flavors were good, coming together to form a solid dish, though the chorizo lacked any real spice. The service was efficient, but not as special as the surroundings. Still, I’d probably go back and give Gracie’s another go, especially if I wanted to indulge in some hotel charm and to get away from the brunch crowds. Next time, though, I’ll take a table, not a booth. Gracie’s, Hotel deluxe, 729 SW 15th, weekend brunch 7 am-2 pm
see documentation of a previous, cooler Gracies in Portland, here:
http://everything2.com/title/Gracie%2527s+Bird+Cage
http://www.detritus.net/steev/vid/graciestrailer.html
Is the dress code gi or no gi?
Thank lord Lua for Gracies. I snagged eligible bachelor from their assortment of arty-nerdy-menfolk, took him home and made him make me forever breakfasts.
I think the author of this article may be ignorant of some important Portland history re: the original Gracie’s Birdcage and their notorious free sunday brunches, which cemented a certain community in the inner SE industrial district during the late nineties/early zeroes. But that brunch hasn’t been available for ten years at least. Certainly many of the old Gracies regulars were surprised to see the name Gracies (plus a birdcage!) adorn a chi-chi hotel restaurant. Co-incidence? Conspiracy? Does it matter, even?