We all have an idea of Italian American food, whether that’s from growing up eating genre-defining meals of piccata and eggplant parm in Newark, or from memories of our rushed mothers dumping a jar of Ragu onto boxed spaghetti.
But to pull off such comfort classics in a restaurant setting is more of an equation: big portions, ample sauce, aggressive seasoning, and a cozy atmosphere in which to eat them. Into the calculation comes Monty’s Red Sauce in Sellwood, the third venture from the owners of Montelupo and The Focacceria.
Whereas owner Adam Berger’s other two spots are more pocket-sized, Monty’s is huge. Think seating for almost 100, with groups tucked into red leather booths topped with checkered curtains or sitting at long tables, and couples at the bar. Bright windows at the front provide lovely light, and because Monty’s is often at or near capacity, the buzz from dozens of merry diners is constant.
Also big? The monumental size of the plates. Both the chicken and eggplant parmesan arrive juicy and ginormous, draped over spaghetti in red sauce. The cook is divinely crispy without drying the interior poultry or veg, but if I ordered either again, I’d ask for more sauce on the side, and perhaps for some salt.
Unless you’re in a big group, do not feel the need to order the large-sized salad. The “smaller” serving arrives heaping with greens—the tricolore salad is a must. Bitter radicchio pops with sweet fennel and antipasti flavors from olives, vinaigrette, celery, and ricotta. If no one is ordering meatballs for their main, add them as an appetizer: balls the size of a child’s fist made of beef and pork with some marinara really do the trick.
Play around in the pasta section, where the original Montelupo has made its mark. Here, the results aren’t as impressive as its Northeast 28th predecessor, but I’m not sure they’re trying to be. Everything we tried was totally serviceable, save a gnocchi dish with beef and pork ragu that featured pitifully gummy gnocchi. I’m never mad about being served a baked penne with vodka sauce, creamy and dripping with mozzarella, particularly if someone has put a serving of Italian sausage in there for good spicy measure.
Sellwood also boasts the lovely and longstanding Gino’s if you’re looking for Italian down south, but it appears there’s room for more red sauce. Be prepared to wait at Monty’s if you don’t make a reservation. I’ve enjoyed rolling into the neighborhood early, taking some time beforehand to scoot around the antique malls and shops I don’t get to visit often as someone with a North Portland address. (A forewarning or a welcoming sign, depending on your stance on child-free dining: Monty’s is a family-friendly spot, so don’t be surprised if you’re tucking into dinner next to the preschool set.)
The drink list is smart and leans into the world of amaros and bitters. Drinking the Sophia Loren, a blend of gin, Italian tonic, with a Ramazzoti rosato aperitif (think Aperol vibes), and a Luxardo bitter bianco (think dark and citrusy), was almost enough to make me feel like the glorious star herself. The wine by-the-glass list is fairly limited, but go with whatever the bartender recommends.
Though it is easy to walk away stuffed and have to-go boxes to boot, it’s critical to save room for dessert. Or, at least get some for later. The chocolate cake is moist and lovely, but perhaps the best dish Monty’s Red Sauce makes is the tiramisu. It’s a lovely, cream-heavy version of the Italian classic, with marsala-infused mousse providing depth, while the ladyfingers are far less overwhelmingly dense than a typical tiramisu. Espresso flavors run throughout, and there’s an ample dusting of cocoa. I’m not a tiramisu fan, but I have craved this ever since trying it.
Monty’s Red Sauce provides a much bigger format for the ambitions and flavors from those behind Montelupo, and with those big dishes comes a few minor misses. That said, it’s a neighborhood gem that’s sure to draw a regional crowd for those looking for solid cheesy-carby comfort food.
Monty’s Red Sauce, 6716 SW Milwaukie, montysredsauce.co, 5 pm to 9 pm Sun-Thurs, 6 pm to 10 pm Fri-Sat
