I TRY TO BE NICE about Washington wines. But they’re so big, bold, and clumsy, giving off boozy heat like a barfly’s breath. In Walla Walla, I was drunk after visiting the second tasting room, bludgeoned by whites at nearly 15 percent ABV, let alone the reds. Or take those Bordeaux blends from Yakima: wholly unremarkable, simple wines even when aged a dozen years, with price tags that are completely nuts. Boorish, simplemindedly direct—it might be better not to go on. Sometimes it’s hard to be nice about Washington wines.
Of course, I generalize. The second largest wine producer in the union, Washington grows more than 40 grape varietals and turns out some 16 million cases a year. There are cooler regions—the Gorge and Puget Sound have milder climates, which helps to temper the alcohol levels—and there are winemakers dedicated to subtlety and finesse. You just have to find them. Here are a few to get started.
Bainbridge, Müller-Thurgau, 2012, $18
Puget Sound’s Bainbridge Island Vineyards was established in 1977; Müller-Thurgau is a grape that was developed in 1882 in Germany. It’s a varietal that can produce featureless wines, but fortunately this example is far from one dimensional, with fresh acid and a lemon bite matched by a buttery creaminess that brings to mind Girl Scout cookies. It’s surprisingly complex. bainbridgevineyards.com
Syncline, Carignan/Grenache, 2014, $30
Within driving distance of Portland, the small town of Lyle in the Columbia Gorge is home to a cluster of wineries—check out Memaloose, Domaine Pouillon, and Cor Cellars. Syncline biodynamically farms its fruit and produces thoughtful, European-style wines. This refined Mediterranean blend hitches candied blackberries to a savory spiciness and provides a long, juicy finish. It should age well or, if you can’t wait, try with barbecue or steak. synclinewine.com