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REMEMBER THE 1990S, when no one was mad at soy? Tofu, made from soy milk, was the herbivore’s go-to protein for everything from burritos to burgers. Love it or hate it, tofu is still a versatile staple for budget-minded vegetarians. I say here’s to you, tofu.

If you’ve never had freshly made tofu, still warm off the press, you’re missing out on one of life’s great pleasures. So skip the plastic tub and make your way to these fine shops. Lucky us: We have three tofu makers right here in town: Ota, Bui’s, and Thanh Son.