EVEN RESTAURANTS weren’t immune to the dumpster fire that was 2016—we lost more than a few good spots to the tumult of Portland’s urban churn (RIP Smallwares, Umai, the Lotus Cardroom, and so many more).
At the same time, this year’s also been kind to the city’s eaters, with more fantastic openings than 2015 by far. What follows isn’t a comprehensive list of best new restaurants (if it were, SuperBite, Jacqueline, Tusk, and Chesa would also be included)—it’s more of a compilation of places that have worked their way through my cholesterol-hardened heart.
Mae
What I said: “You will leave pop-up restaurant Mae stuffed to the goddamn gills with chicken fried in three kinds of fat, possibly having hugged chef Maya Lovelace, and definitely not stoked about having to work in the morning.” [“Mae Will Leave You Stuffed and Longing for More,” Last Supper, Feb 3]
Why I go back: Lovelace is a mighty fine chef and human being, who has expanded her service from the Wednesday-only 10-course exercise in stuffing oneself silly, to include a $35 “lighter” prix fixe meal on Mondays and a Sunday brunch. She’s nabbed Eater Portland’s Chef of the Year Award, and is the winner of my personal award Person Whose Food You Should Be Eating Now.
Expatriate
What I said: “Right now, my unqualified answer to the best brunch in Portland is Expatriate…. I want to eat the Expatriate congee ($8) every morning. It’s a savory bowl of rice porridge straight off a flight from Taipei, with all the trappings—dashi, Chinese celery, fried garlic and shallots, fish sauce ponzu, and an oversize poached duck egg.” [“Naomi Pomeroy Transforms Brunch at Expatriate,” Last Supper, June 8]
Why I go back: Since June, I’ve gone back a handful of times for brunch (without any wait!) and to have one of my favorite cocktails of the year: the David Howitt, with cold brew, bourbon, milk, crème de cacao, cinnamon syrup, a whole egg, and Averna. It’s right where I want to be at 11 am on a Sunday.
