Muscadine slots into the space formerly occupied by Tiga on NE Prescott and, as a breakfast/brunch/lunch place, it’s a welcome addition to the neighborhood. It’s a self-styled Southern American restaurant that riffs on the Portland farm-to-table scene. No surprise then that the menu features the likes of beignets (donut, New Orleans style), BBQ cup and biscuits and gravy. The fried catfish came with cornbread, Tartar sauce and two sides—though for an extra dollar with the meat + three option you can get the exact same thing with an extra side (which is a deal if you’re hungry, though if you’re hungover it just gets confusing).
There’s an immediate problem on receiving the food—the plates aren’t big enough, especially if you like to mix the different parts around to get a bite of everything; it’s a tricky act just keeping it all on the plate. The catfish was good, though according to my authentic Southern companion not quite hot enough for “Nashville hot.” Still, it was fiery enough for me and probably the audience it was intended for—they have Crystal hot sauce on hand if you want to really spice things up. The accompanying Tartar sauce was bright and fresh.
The wild salmon croquettes were flavorsome but they were on the dry side—this is where you need to be strategic in matching your sides to ensure a wet/dry balance (though there’s no room to get anything more on the plate, dammit!). My Southern associate informed me the grits were too moist for what you would expect below the Mason Dixon line, but I devoured them anyway as they were tasty. The Sea Island red peas (an heirloom field pea in a pork broth) were delicious. The drinks (a mimosa, a spicy Bloody Mary, Cellar Door coffee) were good, the service polite and attentive and it’s good value—between 10 and 14 bucks for a lot of food. Muscadine, 1465 NE Prescott, Wednesday to Monday, 8 am–3 pm
