Sitting on the back patio at the new 82 Acres on a lovely warm evening, I couldn’t help but think of the four delightful restaurants that tried to make it work in this very same spot on Southeast Clinton. In 2011, Block’s CafĂ© opened, then closed; followed by the beloved Tuscan ristorante, Burrasca; and most recently, the high-end prix fixe Quaintrelle. 

While 82 Acres and Quaintrelle share the same ownership, I still hope they smudged or otherwise de-jujued the kitchen.

Now it’s exec chef Will Preisch and his crew’s turn to make a go at it, choosing a PNW farm-to-table approach that brings in fresh produce from its sister farm and winery, Abbey Road Farm in Carlton. Preisch has been running the food program at Abbey Road since the 2020 closure of his much-lauded fine dining experience Holdfast. 

At 82 Acres, he takes those haute techniques to the masses, veering hard into zhuzhing up simple ingredients with all sorts of sauces, textures and treatments. This approach works–most of the time. The appetizers and sides skew veg-heavy, naturally, and it’s a good place to be. Tender early asparagus is served with gribiche, a French emulsified egg and mustard sauce, that gives richness and acidity. Hazelnuts and lardons add crunch and more fatty saltiness.

Carrot falafel are a fresh take on the chickpea-based fritters, served with a dollop of yogurt sauce and some chili crisp for zing. But a recent purple sprouted broccoli dish was much better looking than tasting. Adorned with breadcrumbs, a foamy fondue, and pickled mild habanada peppers, the stems were so woody that eating it was a chore.

The wine menu leans heavily on supply from Abbey Road, though there is a small selection of other options. Abbey Road’s wines have steadily improved, particularly under winemaker Blair Trathen. I like the gamay, which is light and fruity, and the gruner, an easy-drinking white. Cocktails, beer and a few non-alcoholic options round out the drinks.

After an interlude of farm egg, deviled with tomato aioli and topped with both chicken skin and smoked salmon roe (be still my heart), I cruised into the mains.

To rank all four from best to “skip it,” it would go: steak frites, burger, roasted chicken, and the lobster. The steak frites are solid and simple, with a bit of chili crisp tucked into a hollandaise sauce. The burger goes against the smash burger trend, instead offering a thick medium rare patty on a rye bun from local baker Tooth Butter, doused in burger sauce with caramelized onions and gouda.

The roasted chicken is great for sharing, but the bread on a panzanella salad side was tooth-breakingly hard. The lobster? Oh sweetie, she is small. If I ordered it as my sole entree, to be greeted with two shrimp-sized slivers of shellfish, I’d be a sad lady.

Desserts are solid, especially a chocolate crémeux french toast tumbling with white chocolate espresso crumble and a hit of olive oil, which adds depth to the sweetness.

There’s a niche that 82 Acres could easily fill in Portland: It’s not too expensive, the space is inviting, and there is something on the menu that will please everyone, from a tentative boomer mom to a diner like me looking for spark and originality. With a few tweaks, I hope 82 Acres will be on Southeast Clinton for a long time to come.

2032 SE Clinton, Wed-Sun, 5 pm-close, 503-200-5787, 82acrespdx.com