AFURI, the latest cult Japanese chain to hang a shingle in Portland, draws lines of tourists and locals alike to its modest kitchens across eight locations in Tokyo (and one in Kanagawa), where locals pay 980 Yen (about $8.66) to order its signature yuzu-based ramen.
In Southeast Portland, the lines for Afuri’s first US outpost are no different. But here, locals have the pleasure of paying $15 for that same famous yuzu broth. In fact, until it was pulled from the menu last week, Afuri’s chicken paitan ramen may have been the only bowl of ramen in the country with a base menu price of $20 (it’s been replaced by an $18 bowl of tonkotsu).
Afuri chose Portland after an extensive search, owners said, because the pH balance of the city’s Bull Run water closely mimics the water they use for their broths at home. With its cavernous, low-lit ambiance, a completely open kitchen with Japanese robata and irori coal-fired grills glowing merrily, and a full range of izakaya dishes, Portland’s Afuri is a far cry from its sister restaurants in Tokyo, where customers order one of just a few options from a machine at the door.
