Twenty years ago, Kim “Rocket Mean” Stegeman put an ad on the back page of the Portland Mercury. She didn’t have a business to advertise. She had nothing to sell. 

“My phone number was on the back of it for three months, and it said ‘Want to play roller derby?’” Stegeman recalls. “I would personally just answer phone calls and round up people.”

She and a handful of friends met at Club 21 and flirted with the idea of starting a roller derby team. Before long, they invited anyone interested in skating or volunteering to meet at Colonel Summers Park. 

“I think at that first meeting it was more than 60 people. It was like, that boom moment,” Stegeman says, reminiscing about a wild idea that birthed, in 2004, Portland’s first incarnation of a modern roller derby league, the Rose City Rollers.

“Largely it was women in their mid-20s, a lot of us who were kind of starting careers,” Stegemen says. “But I think we all had kind of a sense of a need for community and just to have something that was really our own, our thing to be passionate about.”

Stegeman and her friends didn’t know their scrappy roller derby league would evolve into an international juggernaut with four championship wins. Rose City Rollers is now the largest derby league in the world, with four home teams, two adult all-star teams, a recreational team, and nine youth teams.

This weekend, Rose City Rollers’ Wheels of Justice all-star team will compete for a fifth championship win, when Portland hosts the Women’s Flat Track Derby Association (WFTDA) Global Championships. The event includes 16 games over three days, with 13 teams competing in a single-elimination tournament. The prize? A metal sculpture of a roller skate and track known as the Hydra Trophy. 

It marks the first roller derby championship tournament since 2019. WFTDA paused all sanctioned competitive play during the Covid-19 pandemic—waiting until leagues across the globe could safely return to the sport and had the resources to do so. 

Now in the league’s 20th year, Rose City Rollers are strong contenders to take the Hydra, but competition is fierce. 

“Everyone is so focused on that tournament and so dedicated to do all this fine-tuning to get there next weekend and to take the Hydra home again,” says Nicole “Bonnie Thunders” Williams, a team captain for Wheels of Justice. In the weeks leading up to the championship games, the team is refraining from major strategy changes. Instead, they’re adjusting a few elements based on a few expected opponents. 

Williams is no stranger to the WFTDA Championships. She is to roller derby what Tony Hawk is to skateboarding. This weekend’s tournament will round out her 19th season playing roller derby, and if her team prevails, it’ll mark her eighth championship win.

Roller derby, how does that work?

Modern roller derby is a game of simultaneous offense and defense, played on a flat oval-shaped track. Each team has five skaters on the track at a time, with one skater from each team—the jammers—both racing through packs of players (called blockers) for up to two minutes at a time. The first jammer to make it past all four opponents gets lead advantage, meaning they can call off the two-minute jam whenever they want. 

Jammers skate laps around the track, scoring a point for every opponent they pass on each lap. Skaters mash and tangle their bodies together to block each other, knock each other out of bounds, or muscle their way past to block the other team’s jammer from scoring.

It’s one of few sports with no ball or object of play. The only goal is to field a jammer—who can make it past a wall of opponents with help from her blockers—in what is usually a grinding, grueling exercise of strength, skill, and strategy. 

Tina "Beans" Tyre (center) goes for a hit on a jammer during a western regional roller
derby tournament in June 2024.   recess the photographer

The sport requires remarkable endurance and agility. Portland’s all-star skaters spend their season practicing three nights a week in a converted airplane hangar in the parking lot of Oaks Amusement Park. Each practice is a cacophony of referee whistles and wheels grinding against a sport court track. On off days, skaters try to fit in at least one cross-training workout a week.

Despite flat track roller derby’s relatively recent emergence, the sport has evolved significantly over the past 20 years. Rules have changed, and strategies have transformed game play. Most visibly, the game attire worn by skaters no longer includes tiny shorts, funky knee-high socks, or fishnets. The sexualization and personal flair that used to permeate women’s roller derby leagues largely died out. 

“I think the focus has turned to the athleticism of it all,” says Tina “Beans” Tyre, co-captain of Wheels of Justice. “When I first started, it was really badass to do this sport. I remember we made dresses out of long t-shirts that we put frills on the bottom of, because it was playing off a theme, as opposed to being athletic."

The DIY ethos began to fade as derby became more competitive, elevating the sport to eventually getting coverage on ESPN. 

“I’ve really enjoyed—especially being a bigger skater—feeling myself as an athlete in a sport that’s taken more seriously every single year,” Tyre adds.

The sport has evolved in other ways, too. It’s become one of the few athletic spaces that welcomes queer, trans, and non-binary skaters. WFTDA-sanctioned leagues are open to skaters who identify as women or gender expansive. 

Athletes acknowledge that roller derby culture isn’t perfect. Transphobia still rears its head, but largely, homophobia and transphobia are taboo within the sport. 

'Roller derby saved my soul'

Competitive roller derby is more than a hobby, and more than a sport. It’s a subculture, a way of life. Skaters say it’s a heavy commitment, but one that comes with a tight-knit community. 

“This community is so beautiful at times,” Tyre says. “I have gone through break-ups and had people to live with, people who pick you up when you’re down. In roller derby, a lot of people say ‘roller derby saved my life’ or ‘roller derby saved my soul,’ and I think it’s true for a lot of people who have joined this community and stuck with it for years and years.”

In many ways, roller derby has managed to both mirror and shape the culture of Portland. 

Stegeman says 20 years ago, Portland’s young demographic and cheap rental market made the city primed to support roller derby. 

“When somebody called Portland ‘a place where 30-year-olds go to retire’ that felt very on-brand for us,” Stegeman, now the executive director of the league, says while recounting the early and mid-aughts. “Because there was an amazing, emerging art scene, and there was just unbelievable amounts of live music going on. On any given night, you could leave the house with $25 and be out for a night and have a great time. There was so much interconnection that it was really a natural place for us to have something like derby.”

Decades later, it’s given thousands of people–predominantly women and girls–a place to try out something new, challenge themselves, and make friends along the way. For many, roller derby’s impact is immeasurably deeper.

“I think a lot of people who joined learned a lot about their sexuality and gender through derby, and having a supportive community that was open to queer people being part of it,” Williams says. 

Eight days before the upcoming tournament, Stegeman’s nerves are raw. There are countless tasks and boxes to check before November 1. For instance, she and the Rose City Rollers crew still have to disassemble the track in the league’s practice space at Oaks Park and haul it to the Veterans Memorial Coliseum, where it will be reassembled by a team of volunteers. 

The league partners with Travel Portland and Sport Oregon to gauge the economic impact and tourism connected to the international tournament. Last time Portland hosted the WFTDA Championships in 2016, it generated an estimated $1.5 million in economic impact to the city. This year is likely to surpass that. 

Rose City will host teams from Australia, France, Canada, and Sweden, in addition to US teams from Los Angeles, Denver, New York City, Atlanta, St. Louis, and Jacksonville, Florida.

Despite its global reach, derby still has a long way to go before it could be considered mainstream. For now, the sport maintains an interesting hybrid status: It’s played by amateur, unpaid athletes, but still fills major sports arenas during championship events. For the most part, skaters say that’s a good thing. 

It might be a sport relegated to counter culture, but  Stegeman no longer has to blast her personal phone number on the back of the Mercury to recruit new skaters. 


Women’s Flat Track Derby Association Global Championships take over Veterans Memorial Coliseum, 300 N Ramsay Way, Fri Nov 1-Sun Nov 3, schedules and tickets at wftda.com, $30-$225, all ages