Portland Fashion Week officially begins on October 8 (see portlandfashionweek.net for more information), but last Thursday kicked off fashion-show season early with the debut of fall/winter collections from two of our most interesting designers. Emily Ryan and Liza Rietz continued their tradition of co-presentation, a pairing that originates in their shared interest in forward-thinking shapes and architecturally rich design. The depth of their like-mindedness is apparent in the fact that neither saw the other’s work before the night prior to the show, yet the looks that were sent down the runway could hardly have been more complementary, most strikingly in the shared references to Japanese style and technique—from Rietz’s expansion on the kimono and dolman sleeves that first appeared last season, to Ryan’s pod neck jumper made using a Gocco, a color printing system invented in Japan in the late ’70s.
Despite the similarities in reference, Rietz and Ryan maintain their individuality: Ryan’s designs are striking in concept, with bold experiments like a long under-wrap skirt that folded underneath from behind, creating a long, dropped crotch, a reference to what can only be described as “Hammer pants,” rendered more literally in a ruffled legging version. Ryan’s more avant-garde pieces are made plausible by the fact that they are so obviously comfortable, made in soft stretchy fabrics and pulled on without a fastener in sight, making bolder shapes accessible with an inviting element of comfort. A new move for Ryan was the inclusion of prints—a black and red rose pattern (from the Japanese textile company Kokka) adorned a hooded shift dress with ruffled front panels and lantern sleeves, one of the night’s most memorable outfits.
Rietz’s eye for balancing fit and draping is ever more apparent, and she admits that the past year’s experience of having a shop (she has shared a combination studio and store with fellow designer John Blasioli, though as of recently is sole proprietor) helped inform her creation of pieces that retain the flattering elements that women want (emphasis on the waist, for instance) while working in tempered volume, as in a gold dress with a cowled skirt, a stunning herringbone tunic with an elongating stand-up collar that balanced billowing geometry at the sides, and eminently wearable dresses with pleated runners hitting well below the hems. One of the most successful blends of artful and accessible came in a black dress that was precisely fitted at the top, but which had huge parachute pockets just below the hips, adding interesting shape without creating a bulky silhouette.
In addition to the designers’ stores on etsy.com, look for an upcoming joint trunk show on October 12 at Liza Rietz (2305 NW Savier), where Rietz’s designs are also available. For more on the colections, including photos of all the looks, hit mod.portlandmercury.com.