According to the most recent act of fellatio performed on
Portland by a very orally fixated New York Times, we live in a
“a golden age of dining and drinking,” with talented young chefs
attracted to the city by a combination of brilliant local produce and
affordable real estate. While I have no fundamental objection to an
influx of hot young chefs to our fair town (or of hot young people in
general, for that matter), one must not forget to seek out culinary
experiences that lie outside the realm of Northwestern cuisine.
You won’t find the words “organic” or “sustainable” on the menu at N
Killingsworth’s E’Njoni Café, a small storefront near Harold’s
Barbeque that’s been quietly gaining regulars since it opened just over
a month ago. You will, however, find a family-owned and locally minded
business that Portlanders pride themselves on supporting, serving
meticulously prepared regional dishes—the region just happens to
be Africa. The family that owns and runs the E’Njoni is from Eritrea,
which is bordered by Ethiopia on the south and the Red Sea on the east.
Eritrea has a history of colonization by European nations (most notably
Italy), and the cuisine has been shaped accordingly—thus you’ll
find a meatball sandwich with “Sicilian sauce” alongside flavors that
may be familiar from Ethiopian menus. It’s a lot of baggage for one
sandwich—along the lines of bahn mi, which developed from
the French occupation of Vietnam. (Taking the culture swapping even
further, the E’Njoni’s baguettes are supplied by a Vietnamese
bakery.)
The restaurant itself is warmly decorated in yellow and orange, and
staffed by the friendly family that owns the place. The front counter
sports a pastry case and espresso machine, where coffee and treats are
available from 10 am on; and in back, a full-service restaurant serves
breakfast, lunch, and dinner six days a week (they’re closed on
Mondays).
The food is fresh and plentiful and good, from a simple sandwich of
grilled eggplant, bell peppers, onions, and mushrooms on a baguette, to
the special tibs, rosemary-infused chicken or beef
sautéed with onions and garlic served on a plate of
injera (the supple bread used in place of silverware to perform
the important business of getting food into mouth). Don’t miss the
fuul, a traditional African breakfast food (available here all
day) made of slow-cooked fava beans mixed with onions, scallions,
tomatoes, and diced jalapenos, and eaten with hunks of crusty
baguette—it’s a perfect comfort food, high in protein and
filling. Everything is prepped daily, so when it’s gone it’s gone, but
when it’s there, it’s fresh.
Vegans and vegetarians will do just fine here—there are a few
dishes in addition to the aforementioned sandwich, including a veggie
rice dish, and a vegetable combination plate that comes with a variety
of greens and vegetables, served on the ubiquitous injera. And
don’t overlook the dessert case, with an array of fantastic pastries
(baked out of house, by Ararat and another European bakery).
While you’re busy supporting the local restaurant boom, don’t forget
about this cozy, charming little spot—it’s a welcome addition to
the increasingly vibrant Portland scene.