Credit: Andrew Tonry

Wine Down

126 NE 28th

236-9463

While dining at Wine Down, you’ll notice a distinct difference in the patrons here, vs. the patrons at most other hotspots in Portland; this is more of the highbrow older crowd. On warm evenings its front patio is filled with people who have money, and who like to spend it drinking lots of wine rather than shots of tequila or Maker’s.

Further proof of the clienteles’ wealth can be gleaned by perusing the prices on the restaurant’s wine list, which leaves little doubt that their vino selection is better than most. My Chardonnay was lovely, and my partner’s Cab-Merlot was delicious; but these were two of the cheapest glasses on the menu, and a modest pour cost us $7.50 a pop. If I’d gone to Trader Joe’s, I could’ve bought two bottles for the price of one glass–but that’s just the cheapo in me, always calculating how my money could have gone farther or been better spent. I know; it’s annoying.

Having complained enough about Wine Down’s expense (note: a dinner for two will run you about $80-90 with tip), I have to say the food is wonderful. The pesto brie with fresh fruit on their appetizer menu might not sound all that creative, but you’re in for a surprise. The pesto sauce is modest, but adds a delicious garlic spike to the melted cheese; which, when spread on water crackers and accompanied with a piece of apple, creates a blissful marriage of salty and sweet.

Entrees are of the meat-and-potatoes variety, with a couple of pasta dishes, which are beautifully constructed. The pork chop entrรฉe was mouth-watering: a thick piece of meat topped with caramelized onions and a hint of bleu cheese. The standout, however, was the sweet potato cake served alongside. Crispy on the outside and enriched with a generous amount of butter, the big, biscuit-sized dollop was entirely worth every calorie. Sweet potatoes are so flavorful, and don’t show up nearly enough on restaurant menus.

The red snapper listed on the specials menu was equally good, a huge filet served in a light breading over a wild rice mix. The rice may have been a little bland and twiggy, but the dish was served with a creamy lemon caper sauce that dressed up the rice when the two were combined. Also outstanding were the steamed green beans that came with both dinners. They were fresh, crunchy and rounded out the plates with something healthy.

I’m a huge fan of what Wine Down is doing: Gourmet homestyle dinners served with a cheese and fruit appetizer and a spectacular glass of wine. I make it to The Farm at least twice a month because I crave these provincial meals so often. And while Wine Down may be a bit out of my personal price range, that may be the point. This restaurant is a peaceful sanctuary for the older social set, a place where they don’t have to overhear my loud drinking stories, and can enjoy a glass of wine in peace.