WHEN PETISCO says “sandwich,” there’s a continental
inflection to the word (more like “sahndweech”). The flavors are
simple: muted nuttiness from a creamy brie, slight smokiness from
thinly sliced ham, and gentle sweetness and tanginess from ripe tomato.
In various combinations the flavors of these and other basic
constituents are mixed, matched, and stuffed neatly into bread from
Fleur de Lis Bakery. The end results are understated, balanced, and
delicious comestibles.
It’s easy to associate quiet simplicity with mediocrity. But Petisco
is far from mediocre. Here, fine ingredients are allowed to speak for
themselves. But they don’t speak as much as whisper sweet nothings to
your taste buds.
The shop is perfect for whispering. The sunken patio provides a
lovely outdoor sanctuary, and the small quiet dining room is excellent
for candle-lit evenings. The atmosphere, like the food, is simple and
understated, with muted tones and an unobtrusive soundtrack. The end
effect is space and cuisine that combine to support, rather than
dominate, dinner conversation.
While chef/owner Michael Macfarlane (previously of El Gaucho) has
done well choosing and pairing ingredients, preparation is largely up
to diners. Will the smoked ham and brie be good cold on a traditional
chewy baguette, or will they work better grilled on a light ciabatta?
In my visits, I found the decision best left to the staff (who may
decide for you regardless).
No matter your order, what arrives on the plate is consistently
fine, paired with a micro-green salad dressed just right with tangy
vinaigrette.
The chicken salad sandwich is a good example of Petisco’s reserved
style. Precisely cubed chicken combines with mayo, basil, pine nuts,
bright sweet raisin, and tart apple to create a creamy, balanced
sandwich filling that remains interesting without overwhelming the
palate.
The breakfast sandwich is stuffed with scrambled eggs and your
choice of ham or bacon. The minimalist approach yields a sandwich
that’s light and filling, rather than greasy and nap inducing.
Even more robust sandwiches are muted. The Angry Sicilian is
essentially a classed-up grinder, stacked with prosciutto, salami, hot
sopressata, hot capicola, grana padana cheese, tomato, roasted red
peppers, balsamic vinegar, and extra virgin olive oil. It’s not so
spicy as to be provocative, but the slightly salty heat works well with
tangy balsamic. It might be angry, but this substantial sandwich is
content to glower at you from the corner, rather than scream in your
face.
Non-sandwich items are also restrained, but very good. A beet salad
offers soft cheese and beet textures offset by the occasional walnut
crunch and crisp greens. A shareable plate of flatbread, crostini,
feta, hummus, and olive tapenade showcases the quality of the
ingredients and allows for easy grazing.
With all this gentility, the rare roast beef sandwich might easily
surprise you. Prepared best on grilled ciabatta, this sandwich is
practically perfect. The roast beef is exceedingly tender and pairs
very well with roasted red pepper, but when paired with a manchego
cheese and an assertive horseradish, this is one menu item sure to
interrupt your conversation.
There is a place in Portland’s sandwich universe for Petisco’s
graceful and staid European options. Combine them with a cool, slow
weekend afternoon and a glass of fantastically boozy sangria, and every
other sandwich shop becomes just a part of the distant din.
OTHER NOTABLE EASTSIDE SANDWICHES
Grant’s Philly Cheesesteak
There are phillys and there are Phillys. You may have to travel to
the edge of the city to find Grant’s (15350 NE Sandy), but the journey
is worth it for this amazing sandwich. American cheese, tender steak,
grilled peppers…. There’s something magic in this ultra-tender and
juicy creation. Even native Philadelphians give it credit.
BLB
Smoked bacon, lettuce, and heirloom beet combine in a sandwich that
is one of my all-time favorites. The salt and smoke from bacon
co-mingles with the slight sweetness from roasted beet to create an
amazing sandwich experience. It’s just one of many excellent options
from Meat Cheese Bread (1406 SE Stark).
The McIsley
The McIsley probably shouldn’t work, but it does. Biscuit, pickles,
mustard, honey, and fried chicken? Just the thought of one of these
marvels from Pine State Biscuits (3640 SE Belmont) is enough to make me
gain five pounds. But the weight is totally worth it. You need one
now.