I mean no disrespect toward the Delta Café when I say
this, but North Mississippi’s Miss Delta, co-owned by former Delta
mastermind Anastasia Corya, is like a fresher, more ambitious version
of the Delta—maybe something like the Delta in its younger days,
before years of hard living and Reed College students took a toll.
The Delta was sold to new owners in January—and while the old
space on Woodstock reportedly hasn’t been altered much since it changed
hands, the forces behind the original Delta have thrown their energy
into Miss Delta.
Corya told me that with the new place, she’s aiming for a “more
conscientious soul food restaurant,” trying to adhere to the local,
organic, sustainable ethos that is now de rigueur among new Portland
restaurants. That’s why in addition to a menu of Southern staples like
fried chicken, black-eyed peas, gumbo, and jambalaya, you’ll find a
rotating selection of seasonal sides and entrées like
cauliflower casserole, braised brussels sprouts, and chicken and
dumplings.
Miss Delta is a well-designed little space: Wood floors, exposed
brick walls, and quirky light fixtures that suffuse the place with a
bourbon-y hue create an atmosphere redolent with both Southern
gentility and North Portland chic.
The portions, however, are pure Southern abundance. Do not eat here
if you plan on doing any of the following activities after your meal:
dancing, playing Wii tennis, arguing politics, or having any but the
most cautious sex. Honestly, I had a hard time making it from the table
to the car.
We started out with an appetizer of jalapeño hush puppies,
which could’ve used an accompanying dipping sauce—ketchup and a
variety of hot sauces are available, but it seemed like a missed
opportunity to demonstrate a little flair with condiment.
Granted, starting a meal out with balls of fried dough is generally
unwise—but even so, the size of the subsequent entrée was
daunting. The massive chicken breast, battered just right and as moist
as white meat gets, was accompanied by a welcome but thoroughly
gratuitous drumstick, and a choice of two sides. The collard greens are
some of the best I’ve had—they’re available vegetarian or not,
but if you swing that way, definitely opt for the carnivorous version,
with generous bits of ham hock buried in the vinegary greens. The mac
and cheese, too, is better than average, though the mashed potatoes and
salad with house green-apple vinaigrette are both unremarkable. The
jambalaya is spicy and studded generously with shrimp, chicken, and
hearty chunks of sausage, while the ribs are as tender as I’ve ever
experienced.
You won’t find any PBR in champagne buckets here, but as for where
the well-priced drink menu fits into the Southern-inspired theme of
things, Corya says, “Our theory is to try and revamp traditional
cocktails, which is what we’re doing with traditional cuisine as well.
The South is pretty eclectic anyway, there are a lot of influences when
you live along a coastline.” You’ll find standards like a Bloody Mary
made with basil-infused vodka, or an Old-Fashioned dressed up with
“fancy Italian cherries.”
Miss Delta is a welcome evolution of Corya’s Southern vision, and a
welcome addition to a neighborhood that, with Gravy just down the
street, is becoming something of a comfort food destination.