IT’S 90 DEGREES HERE on 82nd Avenue. I’m lounging in a
plastic chair beneath a softly flapping tent. Behind me, I hear
sizzling; the soft chiming of metal turners on a flat-top grill; the
dialogue of a telenovela.
This is the best part. It’s the hot anticipation, cooled slightly by
an icy Jarritos, as you wonder about what will pass through that
window. This column brings the total number of taco trucks (and
trailers) covered in this series to 12, and I have found that, like
snowflakes, no two tacos are the same. For a brief moment, alone in the
shade beside a taco truck, it feels like truly anything can happen.
Here are this week’s selections.
Taqueria Mendoza
NE Killingsworth & 60th
Open daily, 11 am-9 pm
$1.25 tacos
Taqueria Mendoza is a bright blue trailer in the parking lot of a
convenience store. It doesn’t look like much, and you could easily miss
it driving down Killingsworth. Don’t.
This little trailer produces some of the most transcendent carnitas
tacos I’ve ever put in my mouth. It may simply be one of the most
beautiful bites in Portland. The pork is incredibly tender and moist,
and the accompanying onions and cilantro are quite fresh. Something
marvelous happens when you squeeze lime over this taco. Everything
changes. Tones of sweetness are pulled from the pork. The flavor
profile expands, evoking tropical climes. You could get lost.
Taqueria La Estacion Express #2
NE Killingsworth & Lombard
Open daily, 10 am-10 pm
$1.25 tacos
Cochinitas pibil is something I have yet to experience at any other
truck. This traditional Yucatan dish is made of marinated roast pork,
and has a nice heat to it. There are tangy, subtle citrus hues, even
without the addition of lime. On one visit the cochinatas taco was
accompanied by wonderful slivers of pickled onion; on another, raw
white onions—I prefer the pickled onions.
I’d recommend getting to La Estacion as early as you can, as it
seems the later you arrive, the tougher the meat. La Estacion Express
is associated with the La Estacion Taqueria right down the parking lot,
which occupies, strangely, a British double-decker bus.
Su Casa Taqueria
SE 82nd & Burnside
Mon-Thurs, 9 am–9 pm, Fri–Sun, 9 am–10 pm
$1.00—1.50 tacos
I have no idea why I chose Su Casa Taqueria to eat my first tripitas
(tripe) taco. It could be that the cook inside the truck was in
uniform, and that engendered a sense of trust. It may be that I was
suffering heat exhaustion and not thinking clearly. Either way, I’m
happy to say that everything worked out at this little truck beside a
Safeway.
Which is not to say that a tripe taco is all fun and games. It
isn’t. There’s the matter of texture, which falls somewhere between
meat and refried beans. It can be a bit off-putting. Luckily Su Casa
manages to fill the slightly funky emptiness of tripe with a nice
grilled smokiness. It’s even better with a slightly sweet red salsa. It
could easily be enjoyed by those afraid of innards.
Elena’s
NE 82nd & Hassalo
Open Mon-Sat, hours vary
$1.50 tacos
This taco trailer is now one of my absolute favorites. The language
barrier is significant, and the paper sign taped to the side reading
“Coming Soon Authentic Mexican Food” is disconcerting, but once you’ve
repeated your order several times to the older gentleman cook and
everything is squared away, you are in for a treat.
I recommend the luscious chorizo con huevos taco. Here, a
particularly herbaceous fresh chorizo is grilled with an egg before
being folded into the tortilla. The sausage has a bright clean flavor
and the egg adds richness. Very unique, it’s also spicy enough to raise
a sweat.
The pollo has a similar heat. Unlike other pollo tacos I’ve had
recently, the generous serving of shredded chicken is tender and juicy.
It’s quite clear the meat’s been marinating for some time and it offers
up hints of roasted chile. Perfect with the deep smokiness from the red
salsa.
Splurge and add homemade guacamole to make these tacos even more
filling. It’s a very good food-to-cost ratio. I will definitely be
coming back.