THE DOWNTOWN TACO is a different experience. One could say
it’s almost genteel. On the outskirts, a taco truck can seem like a
lonely oasis; sitting beneath a hastily constructed shade, you savor
your taco while listening to the tinny oompa of norteño music emanating from the truck. Eating a taco downtown feels like
you’re part of a community: You feel surrounded by humanity as you eat
and watch people hustle hither and yon.
For some reason, most of the tacos I ordered downtown this month
came with shredded lettuce, queso fresco (white Mexican cheese),
and crema (Mexican sour cream). Is it the demand of downtown
customers? Is it because downtown joints can better afford to pile on
extras? Is it that I’ve gotten used to simplicity as I’ve circled the
Eastern borders looking for that telltale glint of a taco truck
windshield in the sun?
Meat, cilantro, onion, and a slice of lime, it is not. Still,
there’s more to fill you in a downtown taco, and the price is just
right. Here are three notable downtown taco distributors for this
month.
La Jarochita
SW 5th between Oak & Stark
Mon-Fri 7 am-6:30 pm, Sat 8 am-4:30 pm
$1.50 tacos
It may not be a truck, but the bright signage of this downtown cart
is certainly eye catching. At noon on a sweltering workday there were
plenty of people happily standing in line or sitting in the generous
covered seating area.
The Jarochita carnitas are luscious and a bit fatty. They’re super
tender, peppery, and stand up to all the extras when tucked into the
bursting-full corn tortilla.
The al pastor is nice and spicy, offering both brightness and smoky
heat with that hint of ever-lovin’ marinated pork sweetness. The meat
is a bit crispy, but not dry. It’s a grilled crunch that adds to the
texture.
The best bang for the buck is the ultra-rich chorizo taco with egg.
The chorizo is quite mild, but combined with egg and other additions
it’s a huge taco and well worth the price.
SW 4th & Hall
Mon-Thurs 11am-4 pm, Fri-Sat 11am-2:30 am
$1.25 tacos
I love a truck with a mural, and Villanueva is very pretty with its
lush, colorful exterior. Unfortunately, its location at the edge of a
sun-filled parking lot off SW 3rd provides little shade. Still, a large
counter attached to the truck is perfect for the lazy lean ‘n’ eat
technique taco eaters have perfected over the centuries.
Of all the decent meats I sampled at Villanueva, the al pastor was
easily the best. The marinated pork had an intensity I haven’t seen
before, providing a wonderful depth and a mole-like cacao hue. A splash
of the hot green salsa adds high notes and a necessary burn, which
makes this my favorite taco of the month. A close second to the al
pastor is the smoky and peppery asada.
Salsas are key to Villanueva’s success. Their red has flavors of
roasted chipotle and lime, which only improves everything it
touches.
KOi Fusion
Location announced daily on Twitter @KOifusionpdx
$2 tacos, $3 short ribs
A cousin to LA’s popular Korean taco trucks, KOi Fusion has been
using the power of the micro-blogging social-networking site Twitter to
announce locations and specials.
It’s really not surprising when you meet the chatty social
butterflies who run the cart. Their propensity to extol their own
virtues can sometimes lead to spotty service, but facts are facts and
KOi Fusion has a secret weapon in the Korean mother behind the
scenes.
The meat for these Korean tacos is marinated daily by this taco-cart
matriarch in a special blend of garlic, onions, and peppers before
being grilled. Short ribs, bulgogi beef, chicken, tofu, or
pork—each are wrapped in a homemade corn tortilla and garnished
with onion, cilantro, shredded cabbage, and daikon. The result is one
of the most dynamic tacos you’ll likely ever eat.
These morsels are full of savory heat, a touch of sweetness, and the
nice fresh crunch of veggies. For me, it’s worth the chaos of ordering
amid the ever-present foodies.
If you like sitting on a toilet unleashing a torent of buring brown liquid for 3 hours, knock your self out with these places. Fact is, if cash didn’t pass hands, none would pass a health inspection. For my money and gut, I’ll take Denny’s any day.
Pattie does like sitting on toilets while voiding streams of shit. It reminds him of his writing.
i’ve been to all you have listed and found that they really aren’t that amazing. I have a secret place that I refuse to give up that I go for tacos, and other yummy things. It is way better and family operated.
Sorry but the “alternative” and yuppie parts of this city don’t offer the best foods, just the most written about because writers are lazy.
Portland does good food very well, but it does not do bad food well. There’s no such thing as a good taco in the Northwest. Stick with your artisan burritos and give up the charade.
Shut up.
Kip, Denny’s is ALL yours, buddy. Pretty much speaks volumes. Nothing to add.
To the contrary, there are plenty of good tacos in Portland amongst the many mediocre and bad ones. I wouldn’t for a second hold the conceit that the many fine Hispanic family cooks in Portland don’t hold a candle up against California, Texas or, hell, Mexico. What a ridiculous generalization.