On a side street just off Thurman, a colorful food truck makes you feel like you’re eating at a neighborhood street food stand in Mexico City.
A Comer, whose name is a Spanish idiom meaning “let’s eat,” has been at this location right by Lower Macleay Park for two years, after starting out as a farmers market stand in 2022. Since then, it’s drawn regulars from Beaverton, Hillsboro, and Vancouver as well as Portland, looking for real-deal Mexico City flavors from chef-owner Margarita Martinez.
“We wanted to offer my mom’s sazón, which is like her touch,” says Erik Estrada, Martinez’s son.
Martinez’s food tastes like it’s straight from Mexico City—because it is. Martinez used to own a street food stand there, where she sold pambazos: chorizo and potato-stuffed sandwiches dipped in guajillo chile sauce and griddled, dressed up with sour cream, cotija cheese, and lettuce.
When Martinez moved to Portland, she worked as a cook in several Mexican restaurants around town. But when she cooked for friends and family, she conjured up the flavors of home—and others noticed.
“We would have family friends tell her that the food really reminded them of Mexico City, of real traditional flavors that they haven’t had in a long time,” Estrada said.
The push to open A Comer came during the pandemic, when Martinez was diagnosed with breast cancer. After going through chemotherapy and eventually going into remission, Martinez was ready to get back into the kitchen.
“We decided to open up a food truck—that way she wouldn’t have to work for anybody else,” says Estrada.
Estrada and his siblings, Eduardo and Isabel, help their mother out at the cart, particularly with the tougher physical aspects that are harder for her as a cancer survivor.
“We’re here to do some of the heavy lifting and make sure everything is up to her taste standards,” says Estrada. “She’s really here just to boss us around.” Indeed, A Comer’s tagline is “Sabor Mexicano de la Jefita,” and jefita, the nickname Martinez’s kids call her, means “boss lady.”
And Martinez’s food shows clear command of flavor; after all, we also named A Comer one of Portland’s top 20 food carts in our 2026 Food Issue. The aforementioned pambazo is a masterclass in contrasts: the contrast in texture between the bread’s crisp exterior, fluffy interior, and soft potatoes, the chorizo’s gentle spice against the cooling crema.
Tacos de canasta are another must-order, and it’s a dish that you won’t come across often in Portland. These tacos are drizzled in chile oil and steamed until they’re soft. nearly melting in your mouth. Traditionally, they’re steamed in large batches in a basket, hence the term canasta—but you really can’t tell the difference with the made-to-order version here. The fillings also complement the taco’s tender texture, whether you go with the pork belly, chorizo-potato (with a soy option available), or beans. They’re topped with cabbage-carrot slaw, providing brightness and crunch.
Another must-try is the tlacoyo: fresh boat-shaped masa stuffed with your choice of mashed beans or cheese and griddled, topped with cactus salad, queso fresco, and sour cream and drenched in tomatillo salsa. The masa’s toasty flavor cuts through the tang of the salsa and cactus; add carne asada to (ahem) beef it up a little, or remove the cheese and sour cream for a vegan option, which is still plenty satisfying without the dairy. That same tomatillo salsa also anchors the crispy flautas, stuffed with your choice of shredded chicken or chorizo-potato.
Don’t ignore the salsas here—there are four on offer, each one worthy of your attention, including a smoky number, a tomatoey house salsa, a vinegary hot habanero, and a fresh tomatillo-avocado salsa.
I’ve tried their handmade corn quesadillas and the tacos, but they don’t stand out quite as much as the dishes above; there are also burritos on offer, which I have yet to order. But the beverage section of the menu is well worth exploring, with a couple rotating aguas frescas on offer each day. I’ve seen everything from cucumber-lime to mango to taro horchata, and each one I’ve tried has been refreshing, lightly sweetened with agave nectar.
Regardless of what you order here, the pride and hard work put into the food is apparent.
“It was very hard with the cancer, but we push through, and we’re here every day, trying to make it work,” says Estrada. “We weren’t looking to blow up or become TikTok famous—our main focus is really just to provide some good food to the people of Portland.”
A Comer, 2788 NW Thurman, Tues-Fri 11 am-6 pm, Sat 11 am-4 pm, @acomerpdx
