Widmer’s Omission Project aims to cash in on the gluten-free bandwagon with a lager and a pale ale. Here’s our panel’s impression of the lager, which, at under 20ppm of gluten, won’t slow you down or fill you up or agitate what might be celiac. Chris Onstad Understated, like Charlie Chaplin. It is impossible not […]
Chris Onstad
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The Lighter Side of Stout: Widmer Raspberry Russian
I am again indebted to the bibulous proclivities of former Mercury Food & Drink editors—the bottles have been piling so high lately, the man at the front desk has been clamoring for my head. This time it’s a Widmer Raspberry Russian Stout—a “cellarable craft beer,” one of three from their Alchemy Project. Chris Onstad Widmer […]
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Cashmere to Their Wool
Handcrafted, Ultra-Local Ice Cream at Salt & Straw
Salt & Straw concocts destination-worthy ice creams.
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Italian Reboot
Distinctive Southern Italian Cuisine at Enzo’s
Bringing renewed excitement to Italian cuisine at Enzo’s.
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Food Cart Roundup: Pizza
Of Carts, Cornicione, and Char
Finally! A pizza cart roundup!
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Pop Review: DRY Soda
DRY Soda A former Mercury Food and Drink editor must have been off his game one afternoon, because we accidentally wound up with a sample of a non-alcoholic product. Seattle’s DRY Soda—a forty-five to seventy calorie alternative to both the insipid penury of water and the syrupy vicissitudes of Faygo—nicely bridges the gap between the […]
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Lincoln’s Louis Lauded
FOOD & WINE Congratulations to James Beard double-nominee Jenn Louis of Lincoln Restaurant, for earning the Food & Wine “Best New Chefs 2012” title. Previous Portland chefs to receive this commendation are household names Scott Dolich (2004, Park Kitchen), Gabe Rucker (2007, Le Pigeon), Naomi Pomeroy (2009, Beast), and Matthew Lightner (2010, Castagna).
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Polished Peruvian
Fresh, Focused Peruvian at Las Primas
It was news to me that Asian flavors occasionally inform Peruvian cuisine—but ever since Andy Rooney died, I take my facts where I can get them. In this case, it was at the restaurant Las Primas Peruvian Kitchen, a polished, casual eatery in a rectilinear but welcoming new space on North Williams. The won ton […]
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Rebel without a Pause
Nick Zukin’s Mi Mero Mole
Nick Zukin’s delicious take on Mexican.
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Portland’s James Beard Award Nominees, 2012
Portland boasts three finalists for the vaunted James Beard awards this year, a haul befitting the birthplace of the contest’s namesake. Naomi Pomeroy (Beast), Chris Israel (Gruner), and Cathy Whims (Nostrana) have placed in the Best Chef: Northwest category; fifty-two contenders overall fill ten categories. Last year’s Northwest winner was Andy Ricker, of Pok Pok. […]
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Smallwares, Micro-Review
Johanna Ware’s new restaurant Smallwares has been killing it since the ribbon-cutting up at Fremont and 46th. Aptly described as “Inauthentic Asian,” their menu features mapo dofu in the same column inch as quail and crème fraiche, which leads to a very versatile overall document with a large assortment of inventive combinations. A recent visit […]
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New Bunk Bar Sunday Supper Club
Tommy Habetz, the unassuming and genial legend behind Bunk Sandwiches and Bunk Bar, has announced a new Sunday supper club by the name of Junior Executive Lounge. A robust and intensely flavorful press dinner included: fresh ricotta and nettle pesto bruschetta, a garlicky dandelion greens salad with soppressata and fried clams, rigatoni with a deeply […]