This week LA-based apparel designer Jesse Kamm is making her first appearance in Portland, with a reception/trunk show at longtime stockist Frances May (Thursday, 5-8 pm). A cult favorite, Kamm's pieces have an emphasis on fine fabrics, simple, loose silhouettes, and longevity of wear. When people talk about clothing that lets individuality shine through as opposed to "clothes that wear you," these are the kinds of garments they're referring to.
On top of that, Kamm seems to have achieved a philosophy of work/life balance that's unapologetic and seemingly serene, making the case that taking time off to surf, commune with nature, recharge, and spend time with family is more beneficial to the quality of one's work than toiling nonstop at the grindstone. (To that end, she spends three months out of the year living off the grid in Panama.)
For her Portland debut, Kamm is bringing an extended selection of her latest spring/summer '15 collection, including pieces she's created in new colors tailored specifically in tribute to the vibes of the Pacific Northwest. Read on for our interview...
- Claire Oswalt
MERCURY: People often describe your clothing as being "trendless" and "ageless." Is that something you consciously aim for, and what qualities do you think make your products so?
JESSE KAMM: I love that people describe the collection that way. I definitely strive to make pieces that will remain in your closet for the next 20 years. I am really into simple, minimal, classic shapes, and I think those things naturally lend to longevity. I am not into trends, I am into uniforms. I love the old idea of a gentlewoman's dressing, where she had three great silk shirts, two cashmere sweaters, one wool suit, one cotton suit, three smart dresses, and a handful of well-made tank tops and tee shirts. That is how I want to dress, and that is generally what I try to offer to my customer. If you look at the shapes I have created over the last 10 years, there is a great deal of consistency within the collections. My customers seem to really like that, and they know what to expect. All of the pieces are handcrafted here in California. They are constructed beautifully inside and out, which does a great deal for making them ageless.
- Katrina Dickson
There is an active but struggling scene of small apparel design companies in Portland. What are some principles or philosophies on the business end of JK that have served you well?
I think staying committed to my vision, and being aware of my limits has always done well for me. I believe that having the garment district in Los Angeles is a HUGE benefit. I did a residency in Austin for eight months when my son was born, and I dabbled in a few small productions there. It was incredibly difficult. Having the factories who have 50 years of experience makes everything possible for me. The line of production goes from the pattern maker to the sample maker, to the fabric distributer, to the cutting house, to the sewing house, to the dye/wash house, then to finishing.. that is an awfully large system that is already set into place in my back yard, and I know I am very fortunate.
- Katrina Dickson
The best advice I ever got was to grow slowly and organically. I have been extremely diligent about always being able to hold up my end of the bargain. If I tell someone I can deliver something, then I can. I do not ever go out on a limb further than I know it can hold me. I think that might just be a good strategy for life as well.
- Katrina Dickson
I’ve read about your summers in Panama, which seems like an amazing luxury of time for someone running a business. Can you speak to the importance of work/life balance and whether that ultimately enhances the quality of your work?
When I started this company 10 years ago, I built my business model around a nine-month work schedule. Nine months on, from September to June. The three months in the summer are allocated to living off the grid, and surfing. The goal is to spend that time connecting with nature, and attempting to get back in tune with some natural rhythm, which is fairly hard to achieve during the nine months of urban grind—phones, texting, computers, Instagram, etc... That stuff all gets to me over time, and it starts to affect me negatively. So I do something to balance it out.
- Katrina Dickson
I grew up in a household where we only needed enough to be comfortable. We lived minimally, and enjoyed time together as a family. My dad was home from work every day at 5:15 pm, and mom stayed home and made art. My father gave up tons of opportunity to make more money, so that he could have more free time with his family. My parents are some of the happiest people I know, and I learned everything from them. I don't need a bigger house, or a bigger car, or the newest piece of technology. I live simply, which allows me to have freedom... And for me freedom is wealth.
- Katrina Dickson
I am into reverse retirement. I want to enjoy travel and sport now, while my body is young and can still move. My passion is surfing, so I commit time to doing that. I suppose most would see that as a luxury, but for me it is a necessity. If I am not happy and balanced, I have nothing to give, I have no inspiration to make good work. I believe that the way I have set up my life, and making time-off a priority, is the absolute reason for my success. I am happy, and I love my work. I know what my limits are, and I honor them. I am invested in making quality goods for the nine months I am here in LA, and I work very hard to do so. The other part of the time I am rebooting so that I may come back and do it all again next year.
- Katrina Dickson
AND just to be clear, living off the grid on an island in the rainforest is amazing, but it is not in any way luxurious, I can assure you. It does make you appreciate all of the modern amenities we have here in the first world. I am thankful that we have forged a life where we can experience both extremes, and that our young son will grow up to know and understand that balance.
- Katrina Dickson
The Frances May event will include some S/S ’15 pieces in exclusive color ways. Can you describe these tones?
The SS15 collection was inspired by SETS: Wave sets and Twin sets. The colors of the sea and sand are deeply woven into the Spring/Summer collection. In honor of the beautiful Pacific Northwest, I made a small group of pieces that represent more of the blues and green of the sea. My husband grew up in your fair neck of the woods, and every time I come up, I am humbled by the moody skies and mountains. I chose a pale dusty blue for the Trail Shorts, and a cloudy blue for the Ranch Skirt and Chop Top set. There is also a stunning kelp green group of dresses, skirts, and tops. I think that, as a group, they represent the earth and sea, which is something I know you kids up in Portland can get into!
- Katrina Dickson
Meet Jesse Kamm this Thursday, May 14 at Frances May (1003 SW Washington) from 5-8 pm