I could listen to the hosts of the Great British Bake Off say the word “layers” on loop every night to go to sleep. The way their British accents kind of coo the word as they bite into a buttery pastry is Xanax in audio-visual format.
I’d like to think Paul Hollywood would give his famous handshake to Twisted Croissant owner Kurt Goddard and his team’s outrageously tasty croissants, stuffed with fillings from chocolate ganache to cornbread with pancetta and green chilis. For now, they’ll have to settle for a really good review from me.
Twisted Croissant is nailing the lamination game—the process of layering butter with thin sheets of dough—creating a flaky and not too crumbly croissant that melts as you chew. For that reason, you could stop with the plain butter croissant and go home happy... but you’re here to explore.
My absolute favorite is the pain au chocolat, swirled with a pinwheel of chocolate dough and filled with a ganache that’s creamy without being overly sweet. The sleeper hit of the array is the Seeded Everything croissant. With its wholegrain flour and simple topping, it doesn’t stand out next to the flashier offerings—until you bite in. It’s hearty, with a whipped herb cream cheese and texturally balanced with pumpkin, sunflower, sesame, poppy, and caraway seeds.
Of course get the cruffin—a croissant-muffin hybrid dressed in rose glaze—that when torn apart reveals a filling of vanilla pastry cream and a red heart of raspberry sauce. There’s a croissant donut (don’t you DARE call it a Cronut—it’s trademarked by the NYC inventor), and a caramel apple cruff puff.
However, I prefer the classics: The Monte Carlo is the twist your morning’s ham and cheese never knew it needed, with the addition of salty gruyere and topped with bacon crumbles and a smoky maple drizzle. Prices range from $3.75 for a plain croissant to $6.25 for the meatier offerings, but you’re signing up for a breakfast-sized portion, not a snack.
My only knock on the menu? A seasonal pumpkin cheesecake croissant didn’t have quite enough pumpkin flavor. Oh noes and oh well.
Goddard, a Michigan native who worked across the country as a pastry chef, says he fell in love with the process and discipline of getting a croissant just right and threw himself into the art of pastry perfection. Twisted Croissant built a following at the Beaverton, Hillsdale, Montavilla, and Hillsboro farmers markets over the last two years, but Goddard said the goal was always a stand-alone shop.
Twisted Croissant opened in September on Northeast Broadway in a former bead shop, and lines have been out the door during a rush. I’d say go early, especially on weekends, to secure an ample selection of cruffins and a good latte.