Credit: NATALIE BEHRING

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NATALIE BEHRING

From the delicious Nodoguro’s omakase to the nonstop hungry-hungry-hippo action of the ubiquitous sushi belt, Portland may not be LA or even Seattle, but we’re no slouch when it comes to sushi.

For every style of food, there are those restaurants that are fine, but kicked into no-brainer territory for subjective reasons: low prices, for instance, or proximity and quality of competition. A C+ quickly becomes a B- if it’s the only spot you can walk to. Can I remember the name of the sushi place down the street from my office, where I eat at least once a month? Of course not.

Sushi One has all the hallmarks of one of those places: generic name, minimal exterior signage and decor, laminated menus and dry-erase markers, and a mostly residential location at North Rosa Parks and Denver Ave—a no-man’s-land between the Kenton retail and restaurant stretch and the neon motelscape of North Interstate.

Thomas Ross writes about art and booze, and edits fiction, nonfiction, and poetry for Tin House.