Samosas —those tender, flaky little pillows of savory bliss — are a favorite addition to any Indian dinner, but did you know they originated in Central Asia as the samsa? Most foods become more delicious as they’re filtered through the culinary lenses of other cultures, but in this case, the baked and flaky original version is even better than the spicy, fried South Asian iteration.
Don’t have a Kazakh or Uzbek granny to whip up a batch for you? Not to worry: you can buy the golden beauts at Roman Russian Market, and you don’t even have to be able to speak Russian. You will have to venture east of I-205, but your bravery will be rewarded.
At the front counter, in groaning trays sitting on top of the cheese case, are stacks of various ready-made dishes just dying to come home with you. Now turn your attention to the back wall, where the pastries lay just out of reach. The khachapuri from Georgia are filled with a chewy white cheese that resembles mozzarella, and there are sweet piroshki filled with tvarog (the Russian version of quark, or a thick, crumbly cottage cheese). Get one of each of these, for posterity. You’re here for another purpose, though; those triangular pastries about the size of a human head. They’re filled with a combination of ground beef, ground lamb, onions, and sweet cabbage, and sprinkled with sesame seeds.
Take home your little meatbaby and warm it up in the oven for a few minutes. One samsa makes a pretty decent meal for two normal-eating people, if served with a little tomato-cucumber salad, some pickles and cold beer.
Roman Russian Market, 10918 SE Division St, $-$$
There are also some very good lentil samsas at the little Ethiopian store next to Goldrush, near Russell and MLK